Melbourne Crown Casino

#1
I'm quite curious if anyone from australia do research on card counting
this would be a nice place to share the experiences and help out with strategies to beat crown casino. I havent tried out the hi/lo true count
Has anyone play with any strategie that help them win in crown casino?
 
#3
Good read there Ken. Do you have any idea about what he meant by box size or something? That part confused me.

Id be keen to know if anyone has had an experience at Crown too.
 
#4
I have played BJ at Crown, Adelaide, Launceston and Jupiters.

Launceston and Jupiters before I "really" understood the Game.

At Adelaide I "studied" and developed a style.

At Crown I play occassionally.

What I want to do is get a team together (preferably 7 players) and "hit" a Table, all playing by the same set of rules (BS and optional extras?) and all with the same bankroll.

When I play, I play for the Table, even if some players play for themselves.
I will sacrifice my hand to save the table, but if other players don't get the message, I lower my bet and play "crazy" for a couple of hands, until they realise that we are "all" playing against the House and not against each other.

Happy BJing
 

Mikeaber

Well-Known Member
#5
BJteam_player? said:
I have played BJ at Crown, Adelaide, Launceston and Jupiters.

Launceston and Jupiters before I "really" understood the Game.

At Adelaide I "studied" and developed a style.

At Crown I play occassionally.

What I want to do is get a team together (preferably 7 players) and "hit" a Table, all playing by the same set of rules (BS and optional extras?) and all with the same bankroll.

When I play, I play for the Table, even if some players play for themselves.
I will sacrifice my hand to save the table, but if other players don't get the message, I lower my bet and play "crazy" for a couple of hands, until they realise that we are "all" playing against the House and not against each other.

Happy BJing
Just curious....how do you know when to "take one for the table?"
 
#6
Taking one for the Table

Generally when the Dealer shows a 7 or higher (no hole card) and I have a 14,15 or 16, the rest have standing hands. A Ten will give the dealer 17, I take that Ten, and dealer gets a small card then a Ten to bust.

When I play, I watch every one elses hands and try to work out if they will draw,double or sit.

10 years ago I picked up $14,000, on $25 table, and ended up playing 3 boxes at $1000 a box (losing one to save 2).

I don't mind playing 3rd Base, but prefer to play 1st Base, or even position 4 (middle Box- is this called 2nd Base?), so I can influence better play from those on my left.

Once I noticed one guy handing money hand over fist playing 3rd Base, He saved my bacon a few times (I was on 1st) and I tossed him $250 (I was up $1000, he down probably $2000).

My basic rules are:
- NEVER split 10's
- If dealer shows an A, double or split (if you can) you only lose the OB if BJ occurs - also acts as Insurance
- NEVER take Insurance

Happy BJing
 

Mikeaber

Well-Known Member
#7
Interesting

I guess I always assumed that stastically, there is aprox 39% chance of the next card dealt being a 10 or Ace (31% for a 10 only and not an Ace) and that that proportion depends not in the least on the previous card dealt. Of course, that is not considering someone keeping count of the deck and knowing when the deck is rich or poor in 10's.

Based on that, there is aprox a 40% chance that you are going to hit a 10 or ace (30% aprox for only a 10) and 60% or 70% that you will not. Subsequently, there are those same probabilities that the dealer is going to do the same thing no matter what you elect to do.

So, I come back to the same question....how do you KNOW when to hit and when not to hit?

I also sometimes hit 16's against a dealer "made hand." Stastically, you have a better chance of coming out ahead if you always hit it rather than always standing on the hard 16 (actually you earn a whopping 1% advantage by always hitting....not exactly overwhelming <smile>)
 
#8
Taking one for the Table pt2

But sometimes, I sit on a poor hand, 13 say, against a Dealer 10
Every one has, say 19, BJ, 18, 20.
Say I draw a 7 (puts Me on 20) reasonably STRONG.
But the Dealers next card is an A (Dealer BJ, 4 loses ands a push)
But lets say, I SIT, a WEAK hand against a Ten, the 7 goes to the Dealer.

Basically, I use intuition, I tend to see "run" of Cards.
I don't count, per se. I have actually been on a Table the you saw the swing from Dealer Winning to Player Winning, and we "Rode the Wave" and I managed to get back to Square, then left (it took 8 hours).

Happy BJing
 
#9
Intuition for Sale?

Hey partner, How much are you selling that 'Aussie Intuition' for? Do you wear a special pair of glasses:cool:to see those 'run of cards?' I'm interested.. :)
 

Mikeaber

Well-Known Member
#10
BJteam_player? said:
But sometimes, I sit on a poor hand, 13 say, against a Dealer 10
Every one has, say 19, BJ, 18, 20.
Say I draw a 7 (puts Me on 20) reasonably STRONG.
But the Dealers next card is an A (Dealer BJ, 4 loses ands a push)
But lets say, I SIT, a WEAK hand against a Ten, the 7 goes to the Dealer.

Basically, I use intuition, I tend to see "run" of Cards.
I don't count, per se. I have actually been on a Table the you saw the swing from Dealer Winning to Player Winning, and we "Rode the Wave" and I managed to get back to Square, then left (it took 8 hours).

Happy BJing
I guess I must have missed out on the ration of intuition when it was being doled out. I too have seen runs but have never been able to predict when one is going to begin or end. Seems like when I've tried to capitalize on them, they pick that particular time to turn around. With that particular talent of mine, I should be able to get a job as a cooler.

All the luck to you though if it works for you! I mean that!
 
#11
Aussie Intuition??

sluice7 said:
Hey partner, How much are you selling that 'Aussie Intuition' for? Do you wear a special pair of glasses:cool:to see those 'run of cards?' I'm interested.. :)
As I "studied" BJ at Adelaide Casino, 15 years ago. with $500, (I came out with $625) I developed a style of "play" before I really knew about Basic Strategy. And with it I have won a bit more than I have lost (+A$2500) over this span, with one stint saw me +12,500, with a BR of $2000 ( I was down to $250).
I don't go often but I like to "walk out" when I have doubled my BR.

You'll have to join me at a table, and I won't be going to 'States anytime soon :).

Happy BJing
 
#12
BJteam_player? said:
Generally when the Dealer shows a 7 or higher (no hole card) and I have a 14,15 or 16, the rest have standing hands. A Ten will give the dealer 17, I take that Ten, and dealer gets a small card then a Ten to bust.

When I play, I watch every one elses hands and try to work out if they will draw,double or sit.

10 years ago I picked up $14,000, on $25 table, and ended up playing 3 boxes at $1000 a box (losing one to save 2).

I don't mind playing 3rd Base, but prefer to play 1st Base, or even position 4 (middle Box- is this called 2nd Base?), so I can influence better play from those on my left.

Once I noticed one guy handing money hand over fist playing 3rd Base, He saved my bacon a few times (I was on 1st) and I tossed him $250 (I was up $1000, he down probably $2000).

My basic rules are:
- NEVER split 10's
- If dealer shows an A, double or split (if you can) you only lose the OB if BJ occurs - also acts as Insurance
- NEVER take Insurance

Happy BJing

Im new to all this, can you explain to me what you mean by 1st base etc? Ive never played at a table, only on my computer. :D

I wouldnt have thought it mattered what the others on the table did? I mean, youre all playing off against the dealer, not each other.
 
#13
morry said:
Im new to all this, can you explain to me what you mean by 1st base etc? Ive never played at a table, only on my computer. :D
1st base - is the 1st Play - Box 1
3rd base - is the last to play - Box 7

morry said:
I wouldnt have thought it mattered what the others on the table did? I mean, youre all playing off against the dealer, not each other.
This is true, we are all playing against the Dealer, but wouldn't you want EVERYONE on the table to be Winners as well, we got to do what is right for the Table, for I take it to be a Team Game 7 against the Casino, I think they think that is fair odds, and we are out to prove then wrong.

Happy BJing
 
#14
BJteam_player? said:
1st base - is the 1st Play - Box 1
3rd base - is the last to play - Box 7



This is true, we are all playing against the Dealer, but wouldn't you want EVERYONE on the table to be Winners as well, we got to do what is right for the Table, for I take it to be a Team Game 7 against the Casino, I think they think that is fair odds, and we are out to prove then wrong.

Happy BJing
To be honest, unless I was playing with some mates, it wouldnt really worry me how the others on the table were going. Is there some sort of etiquette that is followed?
 
#15
etiquette

morry said:
To be honest, unless I was playing with some mates, it wouldnt really worry me how the others on the table were going. Is there some sort of etiquette that is followed?
No etiquette, just that everbody is playing BS would be nice.
If Dealer has a 2-6 card, we know he needs to draw at least 2 cards, first card always assuming (I know!!) the fist card is a TEN then busts on the second, it is just that we have gotta pull the low cards out to make that situation.

Happy BJing
 
#16
it doesn't make sense

i have been researching card counting and blackjack techniques for a while now and it appears to me that the techniques discussed in this thread don't make any sense, and couldn't possibly work.

the decision of someone at the table to hit or stand on a particular hand in the view of "helping" the rest of the table is an invalid technique as you can't possibly know what the next card to come out will be and hence you will help as many times as you will hinder. its possible that this technique appears to work because you more often remember when you make such a decision and you win the hand and just forget the ones where you loose.

true, it is possible to recognise "runs" of cards by tracking them through the shuffle after they have already come out in previouse shoes but this is rather difficult. seeing runs as they appear as described in this thread comes under the same category as the other technique. you have no way of knowing how long or short these "runs" are or whether they are runs at all so you can't take advantage of them.

i don't mean to be... whats the word... "mean" but i just don't want other unsuspecting people who read this thread to start practising the wrong strategies.

having said this "basic strategy" is the right way to go to make the casino's edge over you as small as possible, but card counting is the only true way to gain an acutal advantage over the casino on the long run
 

Mikeaber

Well-Known Member
#17
Ya know what?...Blackjack ain't no team sport! At least not for the casual player. There is a method used by Advantage Teams but it has nothing to do with "taking one for the table."
 
#18
Does card counting give you much of en edge over "basic strategy" with crown's rules. I think someone has mentioned that its an 8deck shoe does anyone know an approx penetration. Using a system that is only single tier +/- 1 has anyone had constant good results?
 
#19
imjustnew said:
Does card counting give you much of en edge over "basic strategy" with crown's rules.
Yes. Crown's rules give a house advantage of around 0.8%. Card counting (depending on the minimum count you will play) will give you a good enough edge.

imjustnew said:
does anyone know an approx penetration
Crown has 8 decks on the $25 tables and above, but any less use 6 decks (but avoid them due to Continuous Shuffling Machines being in use).

Penetration is 1-1.5 decks cut off.
 
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