Span21 is a HORRID choice of games for a newbie Card Counter.
It is much much too complex:
As far as Kat W.'s book is concerned — the card counting advice is good enough but not optimal. She mostly focuses on H17 games (and even Australian Pontoon.)
A game with a $100 Max you are not expected to go above $50 or so unless you are drunk, retarded, or "steaming", chasing your losses.
If you ever bet 2 x $100 I can virtually assure you that even a little rural sawdust joint will move the cut card until they are at 50% penetration — removing any advantage you may have.
Casinos ALL have what they call "choke points." Levels of betting at which the Pitt Boss MUST be notified by the floor person supervising the game, and a level at which the Casino Shift Manager needed to be notified. Most typically, these are set at a substantial fraction of the Table Max, and the Table Max respectively. Betting double the Table Max always means that you are threatening to put the table "in the red". (I assume that you know that the casino has to pay a monthly fee to Masque Publishing™ for each table.)
On the East Coast and in Canada the Span21 games are 8 decks with S17.
The S17 rule in this game is even more crucial than in BJ.
The 8 deckers that I have been playing for the last few days have a House Advantage of
just .32%, whereas the low-stakes BJ tables in A.C. are H17 8 deckers with a H. A. of .66%.
The learning curve for Span21 is long and steep.
Bankroll requirements are much higher than in BJ
The game is slow but heat is very low.
Basic Strategy Deviations are MUCH more important than in ordinary multi-deck BJ
IF you begin by reviewing the data at wizardofodds.com you will get a
glimpse of what it takes, but here are a few things to mull over.
In S17 Span21 the following are all true (Basic Strategy)
The worst possible hand matchup, and hence the only basic strategy Late surrender is a Hard 17 vs. ACE.
Correct (rare) play - you HIT your Hard 17 vs. 9, X, A if you have a 6 cards.
You do not split 4's or double on 9 vs. 5 or less.
You split 7's vs low cards - unless suited.
You will need to learn MANY indices for the play of your hands. I suggest that about 40 are important.
Just for Hard 17 vs. Ace there are SEVERAL different indices:
Hit/Stand (3 card 17)
Hit/Stand (2 card 17)
Late Surrender / Hit (2 card)
"Double Down Rescue" (surrendering after a double)
MANY indices need to be adjusted for play of the cards if the hand contains 3 or 4 or 5 cards.
e.g. 11 v. Ace (or 10 or 9) you do NOT double with 3 cards.
etc. etc. etc.
It is much much too complex:
As far as Kat W.'s book is concerned — the card counting advice is good enough but not optimal. She mostly focuses on H17 games (and even Australian Pontoon.)
A game with a $100 Max you are not expected to go above $50 or so unless you are drunk, retarded, or "steaming", chasing your losses.
If you ever bet 2 x $100 I can virtually assure you that even a little rural sawdust joint will move the cut card until they are at 50% penetration — removing any advantage you may have.
Casinos ALL have what they call "choke points." Levels of betting at which the Pitt Boss MUST be notified by the floor person supervising the game, and a level at which the Casino Shift Manager needed to be notified. Most typically, these are set at a substantial fraction of the Table Max, and the Table Max respectively. Betting double the Table Max always means that you are threatening to put the table "in the red". (I assume that you know that the casino has to pay a monthly fee to Masque Publishing™ for each table.)
On the East Coast and in Canada the Span21 games are 8 decks with S17.
The S17 rule in this game is even more crucial than in BJ.
The 8 deckers that I have been playing for the last few days have a House Advantage of
just .32%, whereas the low-stakes BJ tables in A.C. are H17 8 deckers with a H. A. of .66%.
The learning curve for Span21 is long and steep.
Bankroll requirements are much higher than in BJ
The game is slow but heat is very low.
Basic Strategy Deviations are MUCH more important than in ordinary multi-deck BJ
IF you begin by reviewing the data at wizardofodds.com you will get a
glimpse of what it takes, but here are a few things to mull over.
In S17 Span21 the following are all true (Basic Strategy)
The worst possible hand matchup, and hence the only basic strategy Late surrender is a Hard 17 vs. ACE.
Correct (rare) play - you HIT your Hard 17 vs. 9, X, A if you have a 6 cards.
You do not split 4's or double on 9 vs. 5 or less.
You split 7's vs low cards - unless suited.
You will need to learn MANY indices for the play of your hands. I suggest that about 40 are important.
Just for Hard 17 vs. Ace there are SEVERAL different indices:
Hit/Stand (3 card 17)
Hit/Stand (2 card 17)
Late Surrender / Hit (2 card)
"Double Down Rescue" (surrendering after a double)
MANY indices need to be adjusted for play of the cards if the hand contains 3 or 4 or 5 cards.
e.g. 11 v. Ace (or 10 or 9) you do NOT double with 3 cards.
etc. etc. etc.
