Hi-Lo vs KO
- Thread starter Thunder
- Start date
It was clear the first time :grin:
I stand by what I said. If you true count KO, you'll see those early advantages, too. Using KO as an unbalanced count underestimates advantages early in the shoe (and overestimates them late.) Another way to see those early advantages with KO is adjusting your pivot point based on the number of cards dealt. Somewhere in the archives here, probably 1-2 years ago, is a spreadsheet that shows you the TC vs. RC at various number of decks dealt for KO.
When I started counting, I used KO. After about a year, I began true counting KO, which gave me more opportunities to raise my bet early in the shoe. However, I switched to HiLo when I started counting Sp21, just so I would be using the same tags for both games.
I stand by what I said. If you true count KO, you'll see those early advantages, too. Using KO as an unbalanced count underestimates advantages early in the shoe (and overestimates them late.) Another way to see those early advantages with KO is adjusting your pivot point based on the number of cards dealt. Somewhere in the archives here, probably 1-2 years ago, is a spreadsheet that shows you the TC vs. RC at various number of decks dealt for KO.
When I started counting, I used KO. After about a year, I began true counting KO, which gave me more opportunities to raise my bet early in the shoe. However, I switched to HiLo when I started counting Sp21, just so I would be using the same tags for both games.
I dont really thing the difference is that big. I play KO preferred. Yes it is true that Hi Lo does recognize the advantage before a KO player but i would say its probably only 1 hand difference at a table with 2-3 other players. However if you feel like you need to make KO more accurate earlier/later in a shoe I "fudge" (only a small amount like +2/+3 and depending on how much has been delt) my RC early in the shoe if we are close to the pivot point but the RC doesn't call for it yet you can probably place a 2-3 unit bet out earlier, or subtract late in a shoe. for example using -20 IRC at a 6 deck game a about 1-1.5 decks delt but we are at -6. We are probably in advantage territory and can use a 2-3 unit bet. If the next hand continues to rise keep on pace with with your normal betting schedule, but if it drops go back to 1 unit bet. the opposite is true if you are late in the shoe and you can subtract 2-3 units from your supposed bet. This is the only way i can figure without having to do any TC conversions or know much about deck estimation.