how many units do you win maximum in 1 day???
- Thread starter KOLAN
- Start date
If you allow me, I'd like to rephrase the question a little bit: What are your max daily wins OR losses?
In my case, unfortunately, my losses are typically considerably higher than my wins. Maximum I ever won in a single day was 30 units, my maximum loss was 80 units. Typically, my biggest losses completely erase any gains from those "good" days, and then some more. I gotta stop doing this.
In my case, unfortunately, my losses are typically considerably higher than my wins. Maximum I ever won in a single day was 30 units, my maximum loss was 80 units. Typically, my biggest losses completely erase any gains from those "good" days, and then some more. I gotta stop doing this.
Max lost 70 units, won 240 units. Although ROR is around 110 to 170, I just call it a day losing at 50 or 70 units, because I will take a break for another day. Maybe this has to do with my personality that I never chase the loses or try to win more than my max EV 200 units per day. Calculating all my session averages, I had won 25 units per 80 min session in average.
I think the key is to start betting when the running count is starting to drop when the high cards are coming out, not because your running count is going up or TC is high at the moment. When I was a total rookie, my biggest loses were when my TCs are high, so I only believe 1% when TC is positive, not 100%. This is also true when TC is negative, just believe it is -1% bad, not -100%, so you shouldn't just always bet min unit bet, because when the RC drops, you should bet too (for shoe games), unless it's staying below TC -2 for too long. This also helps as a camo, I mean if you always bet 1x unit for negative TC is like saying "I am a counter playing by the book" and I can spot them miles away.
I think the key is to start betting when the running count is starting to drop when the high cards are coming out, not because your running count is going up or TC is high at the moment. When I was a total rookie, my biggest loses were when my TCs are high, so I only believe 1% when TC is positive, not 100%. This is also true when TC is negative, just believe it is -1% bad, not -100%, so you shouldn't just always bet min unit bet, because when the RC drops, you should bet too (for shoe games), unless it's staying below TC -2 for too long. This also helps as a camo, I mean if you always bet 1x unit for negative TC is like saying "I am a counter playing by the book" and I can spot them miles away.
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I'm pretty sure most people will not agree with you on this one, but you may have something here.
Story of my short career as a card counter. I have not yet won a single shoe, when the TC was higher than +3 (hi-lo). Just getting killed at high counts, time after time. Looks like I'm the only loser here, anyway.
Story of my short career as a card counter. I have not yet won a single shoe, when the TC was higher than +3 (hi-lo). Just getting killed at high counts, time after time. Looks like I'm the only loser here, anyway.
Yes, I agree. By math, there is penalty for this, but to me, it works better this way. I remember this has also been mentioned in a book, I think it was "The Counting Game by Alan Berg", "Play Blackjack Like the Pros by Kevin Blackwood" or "Burning The Tables by Ian Anderson", not sure which book it was, it tells about an experience encountering another skilled counter that only started betting when RC goes down while on +TC , while other 2 newbie counters were booted out from the casino playing by the book on the same table. I don't think it will work for everyone, but it will work for some.
At the time when I first read about this story, I didn't quite understand what that meant because I was a rookie, but after have often been killed at high TCs , I started training myself to "sense" when RC is dropping and bet it at the right time at +TCs. It's a skill that will take some time to be mastered I guess. It doesn't work all the time, but to me it works like about 65% to 70% of the time. I tested this using different counting systems like, REKO, KO, KISS III, UBZII, Hi-Lo, ZEN and Mentor. It worked on all of these systems because you are counting for high/low cards for RC, but balanced systems works better than unbalanced ones probably because of its balanced nature. I also tried with the "Speed Count by Frank Scoblete", this system is also posted at Arnold Snyder's site, but it doesn't work at all because the RC doesn't have any relation (maybe some) with the actually high cards coming out because you only count the low cards then subtract the playing hands (including the dealer) after each round to get the RC. So I consider "Speed Count" the "Speedy Lose All Your Money" system. I liked Frank Scoblete's other books, but this one is just a total garbage (at least to me, just wondering if anybody got successful with it).
I tried to use 2 level counts with UBZII, ZEN and Mentor, didn't have any problem counting the cards, but the extra brain work actually blurred my "sense", so I went back to Hi Lo.
At the time when I first read about this story, I didn't quite understand what that meant because I was a rookie, but after have often been killed at high TCs , I started training myself to "sense" when RC is dropping and bet it at the right time at +TCs. It's a skill that will take some time to be mastered I guess. It doesn't work all the time, but to me it works like about 65% to 70% of the time. I tested this using different counting systems like, REKO, KO, KISS III, UBZII, Hi-Lo, ZEN and Mentor. It worked on all of these systems because you are counting for high/low cards for RC, but balanced systems works better than unbalanced ones probably because of its balanced nature. I also tried with the "Speed Count by Frank Scoblete", this system is also posted at Arnold Snyder's site, but it doesn't work at all because the RC doesn't have any relation (maybe some) with the actually high cards coming out because you only count the low cards then subtract the playing hands (including the dealer) after each round to get the RC. So I consider "Speed Count" the "Speedy Lose All Your Money" system. I liked Frank Scoblete's other books, but this one is just a total garbage (at least to me, just wondering if anybody got successful with it).
I tried to use 2 level counts with UBZII, ZEN and Mentor, didn't have any problem counting the cards, but the extra brain work actually blurred my "sense", so I went back to Hi Lo.
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