index for T6 vs. T
- Thread starter snorky
- Start date
Sucker said:
Sorry, but you have been seriously misinformed about this. 
http://bj21.com/gamemaster/SD-BS-Variations.shtml
on http://bj21.com/gamemaster/GameMasterClassics19.html,
its written "Anyway, why would we stand with 10,6 vs.10 only when the True Count is at 4 or more? It all has to do with the total number of 10s in a single deck, which is sixteen and you already have one of them in your hand and the dealer is showing one as his up card. That's two less 10s that can bust you and two less 10s the dealer can have in "the hole", so it sways the decision away from standing toward hitting more aggressively. Look, a hand of 16 is never going to be great, regardless of how you play it, so all we're really doing is trying to minimize the damage. Hitting 10, 6 vs. 10 until the True Count is 4 or more helps with that process."
its written "Anyway, why would we stand with 10,6 vs.10 only when the True Count is at 4 or more? It all has to do with the total number of 10s in a single deck, which is sixteen and you already have one of them in your hand and the dealer is showing one as his up card. That's two less 10s that can bust you and two less 10s the dealer can have in "the hole", so it sways the decision away from standing toward hitting more aggressively. Look, a hand of 16 is never going to be great, regardless of how you play it, so all we're really doing is trying to minimize the damage. Hitting 10, 6 vs. 10 until the True Count is 4 or more helps with that process."
Keep your shirts on, everybody.
What you are looking at is a composition-dependent index for the play. As it turns out, the 6 acts as a high card, a very high card for the play 16 vs. 10. If the next card is a 6 it will bust you and you don't want a hit, and if the dealers hole card is a 6 the dealer is in trouble and you don't want a hit.
The 6 is so powerful a card in the 16 vs.10 decision that it can indeed throw the decision off in a SD game, especially in the High-Low count where you have already counted it is a low card when you have 10,6. If your hand was 6,6,4 the count to stand would be even higher.
We see the same effect with 14 vs. 10; with 10,4 you would definitely hit but with 7,7 you would stand, because your chances of getting your 21 have been so depleted you are better off letting the dealer go first. There is also a lower chance the dealer will make his hand with two 7's dealt out, and that is part of the decision too.
What you are looking at is a composition-dependent index for the play. As it turns out, the 6 acts as a high card, a very high card for the play 16 vs. 10. If the next card is a 6 it will bust you and you don't want a hit, and if the dealers hole card is a 6 the dealer is in trouble and you don't want a hit.
The 6 is so powerful a card in the 16 vs.10 decision that it can indeed throw the decision off in a SD game, especially in the High-Low count where you have already counted it is a low card when you have 10,6. If your hand was 6,6,4 the count to stand would be even higher.
We see the same effect with 14 vs. 10; with 10,4 you would definitely hit but with 7,7 you would stand, because your chances of getting your 21 have been so depleted you are better off letting the dealer go first. There is also a lower chance the dealer will make his hand with two 7's dealt out, and that is part of the decision too.
So this is a 6 side count composition adjustment. what if you have T33 v T but you noticed 4 sixes have been played already? I have been adding these sorts of observations to my play. Just want everyone to get the most out of the lesson here.
PS: The EOR of the 6 is 1.6446, the T is 1.151 and the 9 is 0.5524 All the other cards are negative EORs. The m for SD is -0.4459.
PS: The EOR of the 6 is 1.6446, the T is 1.151 and the 9 is 0.5524 All the other cards are negative EORs. The m for SD is -0.4459.
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Yes, it is +4. But, that particular index is not very valuable as there is very little difference in EV by count for T6vT. Below is the chart.
OTOH, it is why the 16vT index is +1 in single deck, not 0 as is generally believed. But, zero is so close it won't matter in a lifetime. Basically, if you have 16vten, you're screwed. OTOH, if you hit it, you might push (risk aversion play) or at least deepen penetration by one card for the next round in a SD, fixed rounds game.
OTOH, it is why the 16vT index is +1 in single deck, not 0 as is generally believed. But, zero is so close it won't matter in a lifetime. Basically, if you have 16vten, you're screwed. OTOH, if you hit it, you might push (risk aversion play) or at least deepen penetration by one card for the next round in a SD, fixed rounds game.
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