Double down on soft 20?

rdorange

Well-Known Member
Is there ever a time when the dealer up card is 5 or 6, and the count is high enough to make putting out more money, double down, on an A,9 a good play? When you are dealt a hard 10 you always double under these conditions. You may not improve your soft twenty, but heck, your banking on the dealer to bust anyway, right?
 
Is there ever a time when the dealer up card is 5 or 6, and the count is high enough to make putting out more money, double down, on an A,9 a good play? When you are dealt a hard 10 you always double under these conditions. You may not improve your soft twenty, but heck, your banking on the dealer to bust anyway, right?

Yes +4 in KO vs 5 and 6. Same with splitting 10s. Regardless of your system I believe that you can double (and split tens) at a true edge of +2 v 5,6 and then +3 v 4,3 and then +4 v 2. Notice those plays are to be made at your true edge and not your true count.
 
Sure! Using Hi-Opt II the numbers are:

A,9 vs. 6 = +7
A,9 vs. 5 = +10
A,9 vs. 4 = +12
A,9 vs. 3 = +15

For Hi-Lo I think it's something like this:

A,9 vs. 8 = +21
A,9 vs. 7 = +14
A,9 vs. 6 = +4
A,9 vs. 5 = +5
A,9 vs. 4 = +6
A,9 vs. 3 = +8
A,9 vs. 2 = +10

-Sonny-
 
Okay, slightly related... what does the count have to be to make it worthwhile to double down on a natural blackjack vs. a 6?

I'm serious.
 
Hi-opt I

Same thing but what about dd pitch and hi-opt I only.
This is the ONLY game I play and the only count ssystem I use.
 
I-18

Is this one of the I18?

I just looked it up....answered my own question......no.



Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the I-18 (for two deck / Hi-opt I) in PDF format?
 
Is this one of the I18?

I just looked it up....answered my own question......no.



Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the I-18 (for two deck / Hi-opt I) in PDF format?

12 vs 2: 2
12 vs 3: 1
12 vs 4: 0
12 vs 5: -1
12vs 6: -1
13 vs 2:-1
13: 3: -2
15 vs 10: 3
16 vs 9: 4
16 vs 10: 0
9 vs 2: 1
9 vs 7: 3
10 vs 10: 5
10 vs A: 4
11 vs A: 1
Splitting 10’s
10,10 vs 5 and 6: 4
Insurance: 3

You don't need to learn seperate set of indexes for different number of decks since Hi-opt 1 is a balanced count.
 
Here is an easy remember the soft double downs on 20 and 19, what I like to call "6 to 4, is +6 to +1"

S20 vs. 4.....5.....6 ....S19 vs. 4......5.....6
.........(+6) (+5) (+4)..........(+3) (+2) (+1)

Easy huh? memorizing every single index is really hard (and not very effective), so I break them down like this and memorize them a little bit at a time. There are also indexes for doubling on S20 and S19 vs 2 and 3 but it is very rare that you will see those high counts.

S19 vs 5 is actually +1 but the above mnemonic is an easy way to keep it in mind.

:cow:
 
If I ever doubled down on a soft 20, everyone at the table would simoultaneously beat me to death.

When I do something like split 9's they flip, so if I did that or split 10s, my life would be over faster than the Detroit vs. Kansas City game.
 
If I ever doubled down on a soft 20, everyone at the table would simoultaneously beat me to death.

When I do something like split 9's they flip, so if I did that or split 10s, my life would be over faster than the Detroit vs. Kansas City game.

It is a great way to get rid of people :devil:
 
If I ever doubled down on a soft 20, everyone at the table would simoultaneously beat me to death.

When I do something like split 9's they flip, so if I did that or split 10s, my life would be over faster than the Detroit vs. Kansas City game.

Remember you're not at the table to make friends, you're there to make money!
 
Yes +4 in KO vs 5 and 6. Same with splitting 10s.

Hey supercool

Correct me if I am wrong, but I do not see in the KO book where it says to dd on s20 @ +4, or to split 10's.

thnx
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but I do not see in the KO book where it says to dd on s20 @ +4, or to split 10's.

thnx

They aren't in the book. There are more indexes than the book lists. In order to find them you have to do a simulation or get them from someone else who has.
 
Remember you're not at the table to make friends, you're there to make money!

Agreed! But you actually win either way. They get annoyed by you and leave, yay, higher expectation. Conversely, if you strike up a relationship they sell you some great hands. This is extremely prevalent in the Korean casino I play at. Anyone for buying a player BJ vs Dealer A by giving the guy even money when the count is neutral or even better, negative? Or how about buying a 13 vs 8 for surrender price, because my "new friend" doesn't want to play it. I get these all the time, and life is good :)
 
Agreed! But you actually win either way. They get annoyed by you and leave, yay, higher expectation. Conversely, if you strike up a relationship they sell you some great hands. This is extremely prevalent in the Korean casino I play at. Anyone for buying a player BJ vs Dealer A by giving the guy even money when the count is neutral or even better, negative? Or how about buying a 13 vs 8 for surrender price, because my "new friend" doesn't want to play it. I get these all the time, and life is good :)

those are some good points. for me the idea of making friends (talking local casino here) is useful. it's part of my cover. if the pit likes you and the other locals like you i believe the pit will find it a harder decision to show you the door.
still like all cover plays one wants to keep the bottom line in mind.... money.

best regards,
mr fr0g :D
 
those are some good points. for me the idea of making friends (talking local casino here) is useful. it's part of my cover. if the pit likes you and the other locals like you i believe the pit will find it a harder decision to show you the door.
still like all cover plays one wants to keep the bottom line in mind.... money.

best regards,
mr fr0g :D

A good point. If you are contantly clearing their tables of their "good" customers, you will be shown the door the second they suspect you of advantage play.
 
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