It is not a matter of wisdom, it is a matter of choosing the optimum play that maximizes your expectation value.mleancole said:In "Professional Blackjack" says on page 82 that 11 vs 10 has an index of 3 in case of the "No Hole Card" rule.
Is it wise to double for a TC >= 3 and bear the risk of losing it all in case of a dealer BJ?
Thanks,
Mike
OK, that's what I didn't want to hear, because I know how these tables are made. I just wanted to hear a reasonable explaining, if there's one beside the mathematical one.iCountNTrack said:It is not a matter of wisdom, it is a matter of choosing the optimum play that maximizes your expectation value.![]()
You can probably create a risk averse index for this play, which would both reduce the risk and increase SCORE (albeit slightly).mleancole said:OK, that's what I didn't want to hear, because I know how these tables are made. I just wanted to hear a reasonable explaining, if there's one beside the mathematical one.
By the way, what should the index be for KO?
Mike
Thanks for your answer. I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and UK is in my heart.newb99 said:It's a matter of risk . . . .
At TC+3, there's an increased chance of pulling a 10 to match your 11. But if the dealer pulls an ace you're doubled bet is toast. If you pull anything other than a ten, the dealer is favoured to win - so again the odds are your doubled bet will go south. You could help the call by keeping a separate ace side count so you know how many aces are left in the shoe - although most contributors here agree that for a six deck shoe using hi-lo the advantage of doing so just isn't worth the bother.
I personally wouldn't double 11v10 as, despite the mathematical advantage, as the risk is too high. Same reason I don't double against a dealer 2,3,4 when at TC+3 or higher when I've a "big" bet out. The chances of the dealer pulling a 9,8,7 followed by a 10 are always there and losing a 16 unit bet when I only start a session with 40 or 50 is significant.
To put this in perspective,I play a 1-8 betting ramp and my sums show that when playing all the long term advantage is just a little over 1/3%. But then I don't do it with any expectation of getting anything other than some free adult entertainment.
Does this help? Are you in the UK?
What? Are you saying you don't double down 11 vs. 4 at high counts?newb99 said:It's a matter of risk . . . .
At TC+3, there's an increased chance of pulling a 10 to match your 11. But if the dealer pulls an ace you're doubled bet is toast. If you pull anything other than a ten, the dealer is favoured to win - so again the odds are your doubled bet will go south. You could help the call by keeping a separate ace side count so you know how many aces are left in the shoe - although most contributors here agree that for a six deck shoe using hi-lo the advantage of doing so just isn't worth the bother.
I personally wouldn't double 11v10 as, despite the mathematical advantage, as the risk is too high. Same reason I don't double against a dealer 2,3,4 when at TC+3 or higher when I've a "big" bet out. The chances of the dealer pulling a 9,8,7 followed by a 10 are always there and losing a 16 unit bet when I only start a session with 40 or 50 is significant.
To put this in perspective,I play a 1-8 betting ramp and my sums show that when playing all the long term advantage is just a little over 1/3%. But then I don't do it with any expectation of getting anything other than some free adult entertainment.
Does this help? Are you in the UK?
I am also confused... You do know you have a HUGE advantage when doubling vs small cards?moo321 said:What? Are you saying you don't double down 11 vs. 4 at high counts?
That's what it sounded like to me..moo321 said:What? Are you saying you don't double down 11 vs. 4 at high counts?
Especially in high counts the advantage is significant. You're losing a lot of value NEVER doubling 11 versus 2-4 in high counts. You may have a considerable advantage plus you'd have a large bet out...SleightOfHand said:I am also confused... You do know you have a HUGE advantage when doubling vs small cards?