Best Strategy for this game?
- Thread starter WRBJ
- Start date
FLASH1296 said:
Glad you pointed that out to WRBJ.
Thx for the update on what "very poor" means. To you. 30% seems like alot though. Is this real or more facetious hyperbole stuff?
How would you describe your 0.4% estimate of the advantage of this game given it's only about 50% of what it actually is? Is that " very very poor"? Could we go so far as to say, it's so far wrong, words can't describe it? Maybe that was facetious hyperbole stuff too but, unlike you, I have trouble reading people's minds when they say something.
Wow guys, thanks for all of the info. Hopefully i can get something out of the casino with it.
I will go and download that sim and show it to the team, and then we will see. Backcounting will probably be my plan of action for the first months or so to get used to it, and i will learn the High Opt II w/ side aces if like you said the sim says it will profit me more.
And again with a 1-20 bet spread on the 5 dollar table, 100 really wouldnt be that big i dont think. Alot of guys out here are just random and bet from 5 to 200. The dealers are used to this, i guess.
I will go and download that sim and show it to the team, and then we will see. Backcounting will probably be my plan of action for the first months or so to get used to it, and i will learn the High Opt II w/ side aces if like you said the sim says it will profit me more.
And again with a 1-20 bet spread on the 5 dollar table, 100 really wouldnt be that big i dont think. Alot of guys out here are just random and bet from 5 to 200. The dealers are used to this, i guess.
FLASH1296
Well-Known Member
You asked: "How would you describe your 0.4% estimate of the advantage of this game given it's only about 50% of what it actually is?"
What do you mean by "50% of what it actually is" ?
You can compute what the e.v. is for any game following the simple steps given in several texts, the best of which is "Blackjack Attack 3rd ed." or "Professional Blackjack"
A good alternative is to check in Stanford Wong's monthly C.B.J.N. )"Curent Blackjack News" where the House Advantage for all games are listed.
According to C.B.J.N. DOUBLE DECK GAMES:
H17 = .53 The basic house advantage. Double Any 2 but NO Double After Split.
H17 D 10 =.74
H17 D 9 = .65
H17 D 8 = .64
H17 DAS .40 This house edge is.40 due to Double after Split.
Note: Resplit Aces is worth.05 extra ON THESE GAMES.
S17 Double Deckers are MUCH better to play but difficult to find in most areas.
What do you mean by "50% of what it actually is" ?
You can compute what the e.v. is for any game following the simple steps given in several texts, the best of which is "Blackjack Attack 3rd ed." or "Professional Blackjack"
A good alternative is to check in Stanford Wong's monthly C.B.J.N. )"Curent Blackjack News" where the House Advantage for all games are listed.
According to C.B.J.N. DOUBLE DECK GAMES:
H17 = .53 The basic house advantage. Double Any 2 but NO Double After Split.
H17 D 10 =.74
H17 D 9 = .65
H17 D 8 = .64
H17 DAS .40 This house edge is.40 due to Double after Split.
Note: Resplit Aces is worth.05 extra ON THESE GAMES.
S17 Double Deckers are MUCH better to play but difficult to find in most areas.
Just to be clear, H17 means dealer stands on Hard 17, hits soft 17 right?
Just checking.
So Flash, according to all of these numbers, would you still recommend the High Opt II, or would it be good to just say go with whatever count, just keep good betting strategy. (i.e. 1-20) ?
Just checking.
So Flash, according to all of these numbers, would you still recommend the High Opt II, or would it be good to just say go with whatever count, just keep good betting strategy. (i.e. 1-20) ?
FLASH1296 said:
Generally speaking, if I say something along the lines of "50% of what it actually is", since I'm not a girl lol, and please never assume that facetious hyperbole stuff, I mean, generally speaking, something "about" along the lines of "50% of what it actually is".
This is an H17 2D No DAS D10 game?
I would have been more exact and maybe said 53% but I know how you hate all that math-geeky stuff.
Can you forgive my innumeratessness?
nottooshabby
Well-Known Member
H17 means Hit soft 17, S17 means Stand on soft 17WRBJ said:
FLASH1296
Well-Known Member
I am unsure as to what your problem is, but you seem to be blind to what you are being told.
It is not possible to spread 20-1 in a Double Deck game.
It is not possible to spread 10-1 for any length of time either.
Even in a shoe game 20-1 can get you barred.
In a Double Deck game you can be 100% certain that you will be 86'd and your name and photos fax'ed to other casinos in your area, even at the lowest stakes.
For a moment I thought about being less strident and using a number like 98% instead of 100%, but after thinking it over, I assure you that it is in fact 100%.
It is not possible to spread 20-1 in a Double Deck game.
It is not possible to spread 10-1 for any length of time either.
Even in a shoe game 20-1 can get you barred.
In a Double Deck game you can be 100% certain that you will be 86'd and your name and photos fax'ed to other casinos in your area, even at the lowest stakes.
For a moment I thought about being less strident and using a number like 98% instead of 100%, but after thinking it over, I assure you that it is in fact 100%.
FLASH1296
Well-Known Member
Advice & Suggestions
The Gospel According to Flash:
1. Avoid the "red flag" of switching between 1 and 2 hands. Every pit boss who is too dumb and too busy to 'pick up the phone' to surveillance knows that amateurs rarely do this and all Card Counters want to.
2. Bet a random 2 or 3 units 'off the top'. Spread UP to 8 units and down to 1 unit. This is a powerful 8-1 spread that "looks like" 4-1 as they will list you as betting 2 or 3 units to start and will not focus on your 1 unit bets, and you will try to avoid betting only 1 unit. This will give you the earnings equivalent of about 7-1. Do NOT have an exit strategy except when you are ending your session. If you "Wong-Out"
3. Be sure to limit your play to short sessions. Do not "park" your butt in a seat for hours on end. The longer you play (on one shift in one casino) the more opportunity surveillance has to look CLOSELY at your action. Most pro's suggest a 45 minute limit. If the joint is crowded you can stretch that. Do not employ the "White Rabbit" style of "Wonging-Out" whenever the count drops too low for comfort. After just a few times it becomes painfully transparent.
4. Never "set up shop" in a casino in an attempt to bring to fruition your Card Counting efforts. That is resented by management. They do not want to rent you a seat as if you were a barber. If you occupy a seat more than once or twice a week you are soon seen as taking a seat from a cash customer (read 'ploppy'), so that even if you are a break-even player and they determine that, you'll eventually be 86'd.
5. Learn how to speak and interact like a (common) loser and not like someone who is capable of playing a winning game. e.g. Do not order coffee or bottled water. Do not play silently focusing on other people's cards. Do not buy in for more than 10 or 20 units at a time. Keep cash in a wallet in a back pocket. When winning make some (minimal) tokes for the dealer - but only when the floor person is watching. Act like an idiot, but play smart. Show emotion like elation when winning and frustration when losing. Dress like you can afford to lose a lotta' cash, e.g. wear a fake rolex and a gold bracelet with nice clothes to match. Never wear a ball cap.
6. Do not be greedy. Keep your Bankroll high and your expectations low.
The Gospel According to Flash:
1. Avoid the "red flag" of switching between 1 and 2 hands. Every pit boss who is too dumb and too busy to 'pick up the phone' to surveillance knows that amateurs rarely do this and all Card Counters want to.
2. Bet a random 2 or 3 units 'off the top'. Spread UP to 8 units and down to 1 unit. This is a powerful 8-1 spread that "looks like" 4-1 as they will list you as betting 2 or 3 units to start and will not focus on your 1 unit bets, and you will try to avoid betting only 1 unit. This will give you the earnings equivalent of about 7-1. Do NOT have an exit strategy except when you are ending your session. If you "Wong-Out"
3. Be sure to limit your play to short sessions. Do not "park" your butt in a seat for hours on end. The longer you play (on one shift in one casino) the more opportunity surveillance has to look CLOSELY at your action. Most pro's suggest a 45 minute limit. If the joint is crowded you can stretch that. Do not employ the "White Rabbit" style of "Wonging-Out" whenever the count drops too low for comfort. After just a few times it becomes painfully transparent.
4. Never "set up shop" in a casino in an attempt to bring to fruition your Card Counting efforts. That is resented by management. They do not want to rent you a seat as if you were a barber. If you occupy a seat more than once or twice a week you are soon seen as taking a seat from a cash customer (read 'ploppy'), so that even if you are a break-even player and they determine that, you'll eventually be 86'd.
5. Learn how to speak and interact like a (common) loser and not like someone who is capable of playing a winning game. e.g. Do not order coffee or bottled water. Do not play silently focusing on other people's cards. Do not buy in for more than 10 or 20 units at a time. Keep cash in a wallet in a back pocket. When winning make some (minimal) tokes for the dealer - but only when the floor person is watching. Act like an idiot, but play smart. Show emotion like elation when winning and frustration when losing. Dress like you can afford to lose a lotta' cash, e.g. wear a fake rolex and a gold bracelet with nice clothes to match. Never wear a ball cap.
6. Do not be greedy. Keep your Bankroll high and your expectations low.