About as prepared as you would be to fly an airplane after having ridden in one a couple dozen times.Tias858 said:As you can see, this is my first post, I'm a huge noob. I was just wondering though, after completing the blackjack school on this website, how prepared would you say I would be to start going to the casinos to profit, rather than gamble as I do now?
Thanks
Boss Hogg Industries
StandardDeviant said:
- Take the course on this site
- Read several BJ books
- Learn basic strategy to the point where you know the correct play for all hands
- Go to your local casino and play using basic strategy for 10-20 hours
- Practice counting until you can count down a deck in 30 seconds
- Then introduce counting while flat betting or using small ramps
- Then learn some camouflage plays
- Then learn money management and bet sizing
- Then ramp to higher levels
- Then learn how to deal with the losing streaks that come with this game
And then you'll be ready to play for profit at the casinos...
As far as the things you do at the table, you are 100% prepared.Tias858 said:As you can see, this is my first post, I'm a huge noob. I was just wondering though, after completing the blackjack school on this website, how prepared would you say I would be to start going to the casinos to profit, rather than gamble as I do now?
Thanks
Boss Hogg Industries
Thanks, i'll probably pick them upDeathclutch said:As for books depends on what sort of system you want to use. My first book was Blackbelt in Blackjack by Arnold Snyder which was a good base for me to understand the game. The one that helped me the most was Blackjack Bluebook II by Fred Renzey.
StandardDeviant said:Then learn how to deal with the losing streaks that come with this game
You count the cards that you see. The more you see the better. The one's you don't see, you treat the same as the cards behind the suffle point. So not seeing a large amount of cards basically decreases the penetration of the game.Tias858 said:and a couple other little questions for you guys/gals.
1. What do you count the dealers first burn card as? Ignore it I'm imagining.
2. If your playing 1v1 against a dealer and you surrender, the dealer doesn't show the face down card, what do you count it as?
3. And in single deck BJ, if another player mucks there cards for whatever reason, what do you count them as?
I don't disagree with you on #4 KJ, i.e., about learning BS at home first. I should have made that step 3.5kewljason said:I disagree with #4. You can take the course, read all you can and practice at home, including raising your beds. Learn everything you can and then when you are are ready, go to to the casino and play small stakes. I don't see where it's necessary to have that extra step in there where you go to the casino and give them more money while practicing basic stategy. BS can be practiced on-line and at home for free.
I also chuckle at #10. No offense to you SD, but you say that as if it's a peice of cake. This is definately the difficult part that can take years and many can never master. I'm not sure how one would go about "learning" this. I think it's something you have to experience.
Okay that's what I was thinking, thanks for all the advice:grin:kewljason said:You count the cards that you see. The more you see the better. The one's you don't see, you treat the same as the cards behind the suffle point. So not seeing a large amount of cards basically decreases the penetration of the game.
Automatic Monkey said:In Alberta you have some excellent games available. Enjoy!
Yes, and in fact when you have a job and aren't worried about outright bankruptcy due to losses, you can play more aggressively and win more per hour.Tias858 said:haha yeeeeaaa
I can't wait until I learn how to smoke the casinos
is it possible to work full time or part time and be a succesfull card counter?
or is it a full time, all day every day job
I think you may be getting a bit ahead of yourself here. Since you asked about books earlier, I wanted to mention Modern Blackjack which is a fantastic resource, especially for new players. It covers a wide range of material and is easy to read and understand. Best of all you can read it for free on line, thanks to the generosity of the author. http://www.qfit.com/book/ While there you should check out the entire qfit site. There is a ton of other valuable information and resourses available there.Tias858 said:haha yeeeeaaa
I can't wait until I learn how to smoke the casinos
is it possible to work full time or part time and be a succesfull card counter?
or is it a full time, all day every day job
Finn Dog said:With this also comes an adequate bankroll of 1000 units minimum. 2000 is even better. Just like you wouldn't start a small business with only 2 weeks of capital.
In defense of Finn Dog's post concerning 1000 units minimums. I think he was just generalizing in an attempt to impress the need for a large BR. Often people new to counting don't understand this need or have been mislead, as a recent poster BJkid was by reading Revere's book which stated that a 200 unit BR was sufficent. Whether Revere was talking of the good single deck games of the time or just giving misleading money management advise, (which he had been known to do), that info is just not valid today. This 1000 unit minimun, while a generalization is more in line with what is needed.bj21abc said:There seems to be a consensus - at least in books - of a "one size fits all" bankroll. I guess if you are just starting out you could use a rule of thumb, but I still feel it's wrong to do so.
1. What game you are playing and where ?
2. What is an acceptable WR ? (assuming a realistic rounds/hr figure)
3. What is your counting system ?
which leads us to a betting strategy as well as an SD/100 rounds.
4. What is the purpose of your play (recreation, semipro, pro) ?
5. What will happen if you lose all your BR ? Half of it ? Can you define an acceptable level of risk for losing it all ?
=> and we can then work on RoR
which gives us a real, custom-built BR requirement....
Obviously these are all interlinked and not all answers are straightforwards - but I am a big believer in working out BR (or having someone work it out for you)
D.