HCing 6:5 D10 games

fwb

Well-Known Member
#1
Do you think it is worth it to HC a 6:5 D10 single deck table, or should I spend my time finding something else? Since double-downs are so limited I imagine most of the advantage of HC strategy is lost.
 

iCountNTrack

Well-Known Member
#3
fwb said:
Do you think it is worth it to HC a 6:5 D10 single deck table, or should I spend my time finding something else? Since double-downs are so limited I imagine most of the advantage of HC strategy is lost.
If you are able to hole card 100% of the time, you will be playing with ~7% EV. Stil sounding good :)
 

Sonny

Well-Known Member
#6
Lonesome Gambler said:
I would check the usual source for questions like this, but the 6:5 charts are conspicuously absent...
But the EV can be calculated within a few minutes using the info in the book. Without changing the strategy at all, the only differences are the BJ payout and the insurance payout. You simply have to penalize the player a certain amount for playing a game with short payouts.

One of the wonderful things about the book is that is doesn't blatantly give you all the answers, but it gives you everything you need to get them. Often times it takes you right up to the last step and stops, leaving the final, and often simplest, step to the motivated reader.

-Sonny-
 

Lonesome Gambler

Well-Known Member
#7
Oh, trust me, I know, I just find some of the more blatant omissions amusing. Calculating the edge in 6:5 is easy enough, and the general gist of it was already mentioned earlier in the thread.
 
#8
Lonesome Gambler said:
Oh, trust me, I know, I just find some of the more blatant omissions amusing. Calculating the edge in 6:5 is easy enough, and the general gist of it was already mentioned earlier in the thread.
Yeah, after reading the book, I keep on wanting to publicly ask "Gee, I wonder why the strategy for --- isn't in there?" :devil:
 

fwb

Well-Known Member
#9
Ah, thanks for the replies. I was reluctant playing at first because just the thought of playing 6:5 D10 gave me nausea and I thought it might be worth it to scout for a better game. But now that I'm home I threw everything into CVData which showed +9.5% EV with optimal HC strategy (I hit a 99% success rate at times, time to start stalking :)).

And it seems the shittiness of the game may be a good thing since it's not watched closely at all. Do you think it's worth it to count on top of HCing for the extra ~2%? I didn't bother at all.

Also, what has been your experience with the really blatant HC plays (pit or no pit around)? I've found it helps to kind of mix your cards on top of each other and into your received cards when you bust, because if you do it right you can hide the fact that it was a 18 you hit. Seeing you bust with 10-5-8 obviously looks less alarming than 10-8-5. Any other tips? (pms are welcome)
 

Cardcounter

Well-Known Member
#11
Stay away from 6:5 even if you can double on any two cards and double after split. But this game is even worse having doubling restricted to 10-11. More decks with a 3:2 payout is always better than one deck with a 6:5 payout.
 

fwb

Well-Known Member
#12
Cardcounter said:
Stay away from 6:5 even if you can double on any two cards and double after split. But this game is even worse having doubling restricted to 10-11. More decks with a 3:2 payout is always better than one deck with a 6:5 payout.
Eh, are you aware of the subject of this discussion... it goes beyond your name. "always" is a strong word :eek:
 

Sucker

Well-Known Member
#13
fwb said:
you can hide the fact that it was a 18 you hit. (pms are welcome)
EEK! Why don't you just wear a big sign around your neck that says "I PLAY FRONTLOADERS"?

The object of the game is to make the most money that you can, not to make it all in one day.

Don't hit hard 17 or higher. (However, if you feel that you MUST hit it,for one reason or another, ONLY do it against 18. Against 19 or 20, the gain is MUCH smaller and it's just not worth the risk of tipping the PC off.)

When the dealer has a ten up, only double on 10 or 11.

Don't hit soft 19 against a 20. Take the loss on this one.

Don't split 7-7 against 18. The book is WRONG on this one, because the book assumes that if you get a ten, you're going to HIT your hard 17.

If you're winning and being watched, you may have to make cover plays such as hitting 12 or 13 against the dealers' ten; or you may have to stand on 15 or 16 vs. a dealers' 5 or 6. Believe me, you CAN afford to make cover plays in this game. Just don't take it too far. For example, if the dealer has a 5 up & a deuce in the hole, it's much more important to hit than if he has a five up & a 4 or 5 in the hole. Do you see why?


In short; Don't kill the goose that laid the golden egg.


Please feel free to PM me with any questions concerning this. I will be glad to share the benefit of my 25 years in this business.
 

moo321

Well-Known Member
#14
fwb said:
Ah, thanks for the replies. I was reluctant playing at first because just the thought of playing 6:5 D10 gave me nausea and I thought it might be worth it to scout for a better game. But now that I'm home I threw everything into CVData which showed +9.5% EV with optimal HC strategy (I hit a 99% success rate at times, time to start stalking :)).

And it seems the shittiness of the game may be a good thing since it's not watched closely at all. Do you think it's worth it to count on top of HCing for the extra ~2%? I didn't bother at all.

Also, what has been your experience with the really blatant HC plays (pit or no pit around)? I've found it helps to kind of mix your cards on top of each other and into your received cards when you bust, because if you do it right you can hide the fact that it was a 18 you hit. Seeing you bust with 10-5-8 obviously looks less alarming than 10-8-5. Any other tips? (pms are welcome)

Definitely don't hit hard seventeen. You may want to hit 12 and 13 against high upcards, for camo. You may want to split aces against pat 17's and 18's. You probably shouldn't split tens.

The EV for holecards is several times that for counting, even in a 6:5 game. It's more important to be able to play for a long time than to grind out all the possible value and kill the game. If you play it right you could take the value of a house out of that game over a long period of time.
 
#15
Hard 17

Sucker said:
EEK! Why don't you just wear a big sign around your neck that says "I PLAY FRONTLOADERS"?

The object of the game is to make the most money that you can, not to make it all in one day.

Don't hit hard 17 or higher. (However, if you feel that you MUST hit it,for one reason or another, ONLY do it against 18. Against 19 or 20, the gain is MUCH smaller and it's just not worth the risk of tipping the PC off.)

When the dealer has a ten up, only double on 10 or 11.

Don't hit soft 19 against a 20. Take the loss on this one.

Don't split 7-7 against 18. The book is WRONG on this one, because the book assumes that if you get a ten, you're going to HIT your hard 17.

If you're winning and being watched, you may have to make cover plays such as hitting 12 or 13 against the dealers' ten; or you may have to stand on 15 or 16 vs. a dealers' 5 or 6. Believe me, you CAN afford to make cover plays in this game. Just don't take it too far. For example, if the dealer has a 5 up & a deuce in the hole, it's much more important to hit than if he has a five up & a 4 or 5 in the hole. Do you see why?


In short; Don't kill the goose that laid the golden egg.


Please feel free to PM me with any questions concerning this. I will be glad to share the benefit of my 25 years in this business.
Funny, but I hit the hard 17 twice while on a bj trip the last few days, pulled a 21 and a 20, won both, but of course the count floored. This was a shoe game and in the last deck. If I am going to play all I am going to have some fun with it.:grin: :laugh:

CP
 
#16
creeping panther said:
Funny, but I hit the hard 17 twice while on a bj trip the last few days, pulled a 21 and a 20, won both, but of course the count floored. This was a shoe game and in the last deck. If I am going to play all I am going to have some fun with it.:grin: :laugh:

CP
The count where you would hit 17 vs. A isn't extremely negative in a H17 game.

The play will make you look like either a very good player, or a very bad player. But it's OK because a game protection guy who is smart enough to know when it makes you a very good player can already figure that out based on the rest of your play.
 

SystemsTrader

Well-Known Member
#17
Automatic Monkey said:
The count where you would hit 17 vs. A isn't extremely negative in a H17 game.

The play will make you look like either a very good player, or a very bad player. But it's OK because a game protection guy who is smart enough to know when it makes you a very good player can already figure that out based on the rest of your play.
Having observed the Panther in this place he was getting none of the heat while someone else was getting all of it.
 
#18
Hard to Say...

fwb said:
Do you think it is worth it to HC a 6:5 D10 single deck table, or should I spend my time finding something else? Since double-downs are so limited I imagine most of the advantage of HC strategy is lost.
Email me the store and dealer and I'll check it out, myself. In the meantime, I wouldn't waste my time on this game...find something else!

Regards,
PM
 
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