New to counting

[kbbj]

Hey guys, I am pretty new to card counting, I am familiar with the idea and concept and the various counting strategies, but I am not completely sure of a few things, to say the least :laugh:.

I am trying to just learn an easy, but effective system, I am thinking KO, once I am at the level of KO-preferred will that be a strong enough system? Do I want to delve into ReKO at all? I have no problem devoting time and practice until I can easily perform these counts at a "store", but I be able to just learn one system that is easy and accurate, but i can continue to add to it as I become more comfortable and quicker.

Also, I went to a "store" recently, just to see what I was currently capable of, I backcounted for a little, and then joined in, I found that I was very unprepared just knowing BS of the current game, and that keeping the count was near impossible for me, at the time, when talking and trying to remember the BS for the game. But when I was able to keep track I noticed that in the 6-deck game I was playing in the count was always about -8, using KO, and was consistently around there during the shoe, do I not bet for the entire shoe or just bet minimums? I think the key count is -4 but it always hovered around -8 to -10, what do I do when a shoe stays so constant at that count?

Also, I was wondering that if there is a certain table position that is most beneficial, I couldn't see why any, but maybe the last so that you have a little longer time to count before your decision on the play.

Also, I saw at Pala's that they don't deal the cards up in DD games is that normal? Do I wait until I can automatically add the card values when I see them for that brief second?

Thank you everyone for your help, just from reading your posts, and I appreciate any help on any one of the various questions that I have, Thank you.

 

[KenSmith]

Hey guys, I am pretty new to card counting, I am familiar with the idea and concept and the various counting strategies, but I am not completely sure of a few things, to say the least :laugh:.

I am trying to just learn an easy, but effective system, I am thinking KO, once I am at the level of KO-preferred will that be a strong enough system? Do I want to delve into ReKO at all? I have no problem devoting time and practice until I can easily perform these counts at a "store", but I be able to just learn one system that is easy and accurate, but i can continue to add to it as I become more comfortable and quicker.

Just focus on KO to get started. It may be all the power you ever need. Certainly it is easy enough to go back later and add some enhancements.

I noticed that in the 6-deck game I was playing in the count was always about -8, using KO, and was consistently around there during the shoe, do I not bet for the entire shoe or just bet minimums? I think the key count is -4 but it always hovered around -8 to -10, what do I do when a shoe stays so constant at that count?

Since there is no way to tell what the count will do later in the shoe, you should be playing through these situations at minimum bets. If the count drops badly, leaving the table is better, although not always feasible on a regular basis.

Also, I was wondering that if there is a certain table position that is most beneficial, I couldn't see why any, but maybe the last so that you have a little longer time to count before your decision on the play.

There is no significant benefit from any particular seat. Late seats get more time, and if you are varying strategy with some index numbers, you get the benefit of seeing a few more cards before you decide how to play your hand. Minimal impact though.

Also, I saw at Pala's that they don't deal the cards up in DD games is that normal? Do I wait until I can automatically add the card values when I see them for that brief second?

That's normal in two-deck and one-deck games. Count the extra hit cards when the dealer deals them. Also count any hand that is revealed for a double-down or split immediately. Count any concealed cards (initial two cards for a hand or the double down cards) when you see them after the round (or when the player tosses them in for a busted hand.)

Thank you everyone for your help, just from reading your posts, and I appreciate any help on any one of the various questions that I have, Thank you.

Welcome aboard!

 

[Requiem]

Using the KO system, what is the starting running count for 2 and 6 deck shoes?

Which is better, Hi-Lo or KO?

Thanks!

 

[BJinNJ]

Try this...

http://www.qfit.com/card-counting.htm

BJinNJ

 

[aslan]

Using the KO system, what is the starting running count for 2 and 6 deck shoes?

Which is better, Hi-Lo or KO?

Thanks!

KO will ruin you. I find it so easy I can't get myself motivated to move up to a more efficient system. KO gets the money, but one could squeeze out some extra bucks with Zen or other level two count, which is very important, I would think, if you plan to make a living at counting and related APs. KO = maximum payoff for minimum effort. It is compatible with simultaneously applied other advantage techniques, or one can relax and socialize if so disposed while playing at an advantage.

 

[Requiem]

KO will ruin you. I find it so easy I can't get myself motivated to move up to a more efficient system. KO gets the money, but one could squeeze out some extra bucks with Zen or other level two count, which is very important, I would think, if you plan to make a living at counting and related APs. KO = maximum payoff for minimum effort. It is compatible with simultaneously applied other advantage techniques, or one can relax and socialize if so disposed while playing at an advantage.

Okay I've been practicing quite a bit with Hi-Lo but I think I'll give the KO a try.

A couple more questions...

At a 6D game using KO (-20 initial running count), I see the trigger point is -4. How many units up would I go from there? Assume a 1-10 bet spread. What's the optimal betting ramp?

Also, what is the difference between the KO and REKO?

Finally, are the KO index plays listed anywhere?

Thanks guys! Much appreciated.

 

[Severity8]

http://www.blackjackinfo.com/store/blackjack-counting/knock-out-blackjack.html

http://www.blackjackinfo.com/store/blackjack-advanced/the-color-of-blackjack.html

http://www.qfit.com/book/index.htm

Read these then ask questions you can find them cheaper if you try, but these are the predominant KO and variant books. Use good lighting or you'll hurt your eyes :grin:

 

[ycming]

KO will ruin you. I find it so easy I can't get myself motivated to move up to a more efficient system. KO gets the money, but one could squeeze out some extra bucks with Zen or other level two count, which is very important, I would think, if you plan to make a living at counting and related APs. KO = maximum payoff for minimum effort. It is compatible with simultaneously applied other advantage techniques, or one can relax and socialize if so disposed while playing at an advantage.

I agree with that! started with hi-lo it was so easy found it hard to move.

Now am using Zen .

Ming

 

[Gamblor]

I agree with that! started with hi-lo it was so easy found it hard to move.

Now am using Zen .

Ming

The fact that is so easy is maybe a good thing. It lets you, you know, concentrate more on other things.

 

[Requiem]

Thanks for the info Severity.

 

[StandardDeviant]

I am trying to just learn an easy, but effective system, I am thinking KO, once I am at the level of KO-preferred will that be a strong enough system?

Start with an "easy" Level I system like KO. The theoretical advantage of stronger systems can easily be lost by player error. Level I systems like KO and Hi-Lo are "strong enough." Other aspects of your game, in particular, playing conditions and money management will make more of a difference than your system.

Beginners tend to stress over what system to learn. In many respects, this is one of the least important aspects of advantage play.