Нижче наведено всі коментарі, розміщені на сайті, причому найсвіжіші дискусії перераховані першими.
Щоб взяти участь у будь-якому з цих обговорень, ви можете відповісти на сторінці статті.
Я бачу в цьому одноразову перевагу для середнього хайролера, який готовий програти $250,000 за одну ніч у стані симульованого сп'яніння, а потім скористатися заздалегідь узгодженим/фіксованим тарифом адвоката, щоб оскаржити цей програш у судовому порядку. Подібно до стратегії відшкодування збитків.
Your question asks specifics that probably aren’t relevant to what you really want to know…
Are the random number generators in my trainer and those in a casino video blackjack machine “similar”?
Well, yes and no. They are probably very different in the actual programming, because there are many ways to code an RNG. But yes, they both provide reasonably high quality streams of random numbers.
What you likely really want to know is how your results will compare when playing in a casino compared to on my site’s trainer.
No one can answer that ahead of time, because it comes down to the random results.
If you are luckier on my site, you’ll do better there. If you are luckier in the casino, your results will be better in the casino.
Both my trainer and the casino’s games use the same rules and conditions. What happens after that is luck, good or bad.
The short term results in either place will not give you ANY information about what will happen next time you play.
There is one frequent difference between my trainer and video blackjack in a casino. Many casino video blackjack games pay only even money for blackjack. If that is the case, the screen will likely say “Blackjack pays 2 for 1”. That means they take your 1 unit bet and pay you back 2 units if you get a blackjack. That’s the same as even money, or a “1 to 1” payout. This rule is terrible, and will substantially increase your losses.
Usually, the large multi-player video blackjack games do pay the normal 3:2 for blackjack, but be sure to check the rules on the machine you want to play. Most of the single player vbj machines will have the worse rule.
Деякі великі казино в Макао не дозволяють здаватися тільки тоді, коли у дилера туз. Діркової карти немає. І вони часто нагадують гравцеві, що потрібно забирати парні гроші. Яка стратегія при таких правилах, якщо у вас 8-8 або 7-7, а у дилера 10? Дякую.
Оскільки в движку стратегій немає опції "Дострокова капітуляція, але не проти туза" (поки що!), вам доведеться змішувати і підбирати діаграми.
Ось стратегія для 6D, H17, ES, No Hole Card: https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-basic-strategy-engine/?numdecks=6&soft17=h17&dbl=all&das=yes&surr=es&peek=no
Ігноруйте пораду здаватися проти туза, оскільки це заборонено. (Або ви можете створити другу діаграму без капітуляції і використовувати стовпчик Туз з неї).
Для ваших конкретних запитань: У дилера 10 карт, немає жодної карти з діркою, і ви можете здатись...
Ви повинні здавати наступні роздачі (як показано на діаграмі вище):
(7,7) проти десяти
(8,8) проти десяти
Жорсткі 14 проти 10
Жорсткі 15 проти 10
Жорсткі 16 проти 10
Крім того, Hard 16 проти 9.
first i want to apologyze about the thing concerning my security, it was just bullshit. i was trolling a bit, my country is not dangerous, i love colombia. but some people get angry at you when you play BS. i have another question, here in my city there is a side bet which you gamble to get a pair. if you get a mix pair(red and black) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of spikes they pay 6 times your side bet. if you get a color pair(red and red or black and black) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of hearts they play 12 times your side bet and if your ge a perfect pair(the same card) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of diamonds they pay you 25 times your side bet. my question is it worth it?
Like most side bets, it’s quite expensive. The house edge in six decks on the paytable you describe is 5.47%.
My advice about side bets is very simple: Ignore them.
Are there further lessons that deal with alternative counting strategies? Im going to check anyway, just wanted to say thanks for systematizing what i already knew, looking forward to reading more
I just saw information, and a UTube snippet on “Speed Count”, where one only counts the plus cards (2-7) played during the hand, and then subtracts the number of hands played to get a running count. Of course, they recommend their system highly, claiming a 1% player advantage using the system. What are the betting increase levels? ( I presume since they use 2-7 like KO and REKO, one starts out at -2 x [number of hands] )
I have tried to use REKO. I keep up the count just fine at 2 deck games, but have difficulty maintaining count at 6-deck due to not wanting to merely sit and stare at cards throughout.
I am not a fan of Speed Count, unless you really feel that you are unable to manage anything more powerful. Speed Count is quite a bit weaker than KO or Hi-Lo, and when you are playing a six-deck game it really extends the number of hands you must play before you reach the fabled “long run”. My recommendation is keep working at maintaining the count using KO. I have a tough time believing the claimed 1% player edge using Speed Count, except under very good conditions and a large bet spread. KO and Hi-Lo can rarely achieve that level in practice, with 0.5% to 0.7% being a more typical edge in a six deck game. Does Speed Count work? Yes, but your edge will be smaller, and it will take more hands to reach a high likelihood of being ahead of the variance of the game.
I have your Advanced Card Set (which are very helpful and I would highly recommend to everyone). I am building a custom playing strategy in CVBJ for DD as I’ve been wanting to learn correct BS and Indices instead of the composite. Comparing the indices on your 2D, H17 card to the matrix you’ve linked above, I’m seeing several differences, are there certain rule assumptions in the two sets of indices that I’m overlooking?
Just looking at the top of hard total section for example (>> card index, link index)
8 vs 5 >> 3, 6
8 vs 6 >> 2, 3
9 vs 2 >> -1, 2
9 vs 3 >> 1, 0
9 vs 4 >> -3, -3 (same)
9 vs 5 >> -5, -4
10 vs 9 >> -2, -1
I have struggled with how to deal with the discrepancies between the GameMaster’s published index numbers and the ones I spent so many hours devising for the strategy cards. GM himself noted that he used risk-adverse index numbers, and that explains most of the differences, although not all. My choice to not risk-adjust my indexes is based on the fact that exceptionally few players bet near a Kelly fraction of their true bankroll. Even players who do make bet sizing calculations based on Kelly tend to use the amount of money they have on hand for gambling right now, with no consideration of future income streams. Of course, that does reduce risk of ruin, and I am definitely not saying that is a bad idea. But it does taint any risk-averse calculations that are based on the lower bankroll estimates. If you choose to use risk-averse numbers, then the appropriate index number literally depends on the size of your bet on that specific hand at the time, which seems ridiculous to have to consider. And it is not like risk-averse indexes can magically make the game far less risky. They have a very small effect, despite the considerable complexities they cause. I prefer (and use) straight index numbers, and comfortably know that I’m doing the right thing because I am not risking anywhere near a Kelly fraction of my bankroll anyway. (In that case, risk-averse and non-adjusted indexes are identical anyway!)
I mention the differences between his indexes and mine inside the lesson at https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-school/lesson-14-advanced-course-part-2/ .
But the discrepancies do make me uncomfortable, and they require a lot of explanation to readers. Witness this lengthy reply! Since I cannot get in touch with GameMaster to discuss a resolution, I have left things as they are so far. But, as time passes, I become more convinced that I should simply edit all of his index numbers so that they are consistent with mine. I spent hundreds of hours optimizing my numbers, and have a great deal of confidence in their utility. Generating index numbers is much more involved than most people realize. Each number is also dependent on the choice of index numbers further down the decision chain. That is, determining an accurate index for 14vT also depends on the values chosen for 15vT and 16vT, since those are among the possible outcomes for hitting 15vT. It is a lengthy recursive process. I don’t know what method GameMaster used to generate his numbers, but I doubt that his methodology was as careful as mine. For that reason, I completely recommend my values. If there is a difference, I say use my number.
The good news is that when the index differs by more than a point or two, that indicates a situation where the edge likely changes slowly as the count changes. That means the most contested numbers are likely those that matter the least, where a point or three won’t affect your results much at all. The truth is that if you were to use all of his numbers vs all of my numbers, the difference in expected results is small.
Thanks, Ken, for the very detailed response. Your last point is especially helpful in explaining the larger discrepancies which were particularly concerning/confusing to me.
So for 9 vs 2 >> – 1, 2 which has a large difference and crosses the +/- threshold, the edge changes slower and the basic strategy decision to ‘double’ (index -1) is close enough that after factoring in risk-aversion it would change the BS decision to ‘hit’ (as the index is >=2)?
On a side note, though I know the incremental expected value is small, are you able to provide or can I purchase your full index sets beyond -5 to 5 for the six sets of rules if you have them?
During the iterative process of generating the indexes, I truncated the list to only -5 to +5 at each step of the process, so I do not have the outlying indexes. Wong’s Професійний блекджек has a wider range for shoe games in H17 and S17 if I recall correctly.
Привіт, я трохи заплутався в "європейській" стратегії (6 колод, S17, D9, DAS, NoSurr, NoPeek(!), ніякого повернення(!!) спліту або подвоєння на дилерському BJ), розрахованій за допомогою вашого движка. Хоча я розумію, що 11 проти десятки може зіткнутися з блекджеком дилера, все одно мені потрібно 15 десяток, щоб отримати 21, а дилеру - лише 4 тузи, щоб зібрати блекджек (рахується на колоду). Так чому б не зробити DD на 11 проти 10?
Наступний пункт - не ставити вісімки проти десятки або туза. Я легко можу зрозуміти, що не варто ставити вісімки проти А через те, що "там багато десяток". Але знову ж таки, чому б не розділити ці потворні 16 очок проти десятки дилера, якому потрібен "рідкісний" туз, щоб вибити мене? Ще більш незрозуміло: якщо вісімки не можна ділити проти десятки, то чому тузи повинні ділитися проти десятки?
Коротка відповідь така: Просто так складаються цифри. Просто довіртеся стратегії.
Але я впевнений, що ця відповідь вас не дуже задовольнить. Тому я спробую дати вам більше інформації. Як щодо подвоєння 11vT? Ви не можете просто дивитися на ймовірність того, що вам випаде десятка, а дилеру - туз. Здебільшого ні те, ні інше не станеться. Складність полягає в тому, щоб порівняти всі інші можливі результати. Ви заробите гроші, коли подвоїте 11vT, але це буде не так багато, як ви заробите в середньому, просто зібравши карту. По-перше, при подвоєнні ви втрачаєте можливість зібрати більше однієї карти. Якщо ви витягнете туза, 2,3,4 або 5, ви хотіли б мати можливість зіграти ще раз, але вам це не дозволяється. Всі ці фактори враховуються в розрахунках, і в грі без дірок ви не повинні подвоювати 11vT. (Насправді, в описаній вами грі S17 ви не повинні подвоювати 11vT, навіть якщо дилер взяв відкриту карту).
Інші рішення мають такі ж складні пояснення. На питання "чому" базової стратегії рідко бувають прості відповіді. Розрахунки враховують усі можливі результати і показують вам найприбутковіший (або, частіше, найменш збитковий!) спосіб розіграти кожне рішення.
Not true, Black Jack is a game of 2 no more no less. It’s you and the dealer. Whatever anyone else does, shouldn’t affect you. Unless you were counting.
Я бачу в цьому одноразову перевагу для середнього хайролера, який готовий програти $250,000 за одну ніч у стані симульованого сп'яніння, а потім скористатися заздалегідь узгодженим/фіксованим тарифом адвоката, щоб оскаржити цей програш у судовому порядку. Подібно до стратегії відшкодування збитків.
Постскриптум -
Джонсон був звинувачений у шахрайстві з чеками прокурором Вегаса після того, як велике журі винесло рішення проти нього ... і тоді він погодився на 50%, як мені сказали -
http://lasvegassun.com/news/2015/jun/12/gambler-indicted-wanted-owing-casino-500000-losses/
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How do casino BJ machines compare to your site – similar random # generators, speeds, etc?
Your question asks specifics that probably aren’t relevant to what you really want to know…
Are the random number generators in my trainer and those in a casino video blackjack machine “similar”?
Well, yes and no. They are probably very different in the actual programming, because there are many ways to code an RNG. But yes, they both provide reasonably high quality streams of random numbers.
What you likely really want to know is how your results will compare when playing in a casino compared to on my site’s trainer.
No one can answer that ahead of time, because it comes down to the random results.
If you are luckier on my site, you’ll do better there. If you are luckier in the casino, your results will be better in the casino.
Both my trainer and the casino’s games use the same rules and conditions. What happens after that is luck, good or bad.
The short term results in either place will not give you ANY information about what will happen next time you play.
There is one frequent difference between my trainer and video blackjack in a casino. Many casino video blackjack games pay only even money for blackjack. If that is the case, the screen will likely say “Blackjack pays 2 for 1”. That means they take your 1 unit bet and pay you back 2 units if you get a blackjack. That’s the same as even money, or a “1 to 1” payout. This rule is terrible, and will substantially increase your losses.
Usually, the large multi-player video blackjack games do pay the normal 3:2 for blackjack, but be sure to check the rules on the machine you want to play. Most of the single player vbj machines will have the worse rule.
Деякі великі казино в Макао не дозволяють здаватися тільки тоді, коли у дилера туз. Діркової карти немає. І вони часто нагадують гравцеві, що потрібно забирати парні гроші. Яка стратегія при таких правилах, якщо у вас 8-8 або 7-7, а у дилера 10? Дякую.
Оскільки в движку стратегій немає опції "Дострокова капітуляція, але не проти туза" (поки що!), вам доведеться змішувати і підбирати діаграми.
Ось стратегія для 6D, H17, ES, No Hole Card: https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-basic-strategy-engine/?numdecks=6&soft17=h17&dbl=all&das=yes&surr=es&peek=no
Ігноруйте пораду здаватися проти туза, оскільки це заборонено. (Або ви можете створити другу діаграму без капітуляції і використовувати стовпчик Туз з неї).
Для ваших конкретних запитань: У дилера 10 карт, немає жодної карти з діркою, і ви можете здатись...
Ви повинні здавати наступні роздачі (як показано на діаграмі вище):
(7,7) проти десяти
(8,8) проти десяти
Жорсткі 14 проти 10
Жорсткі 15 проти 10
Жорсткі 16 проти 10
Крім того, Hard 16 проти 9.
first i want to apologyze about the thing concerning my security, it was just bullshit. i was trolling a bit, my country is not dangerous, i love colombia. but some people get angry at you when you play BS. i have another question, here in my city there is a side bet which you gamble to get a pair. if you get a mix pair(red and black) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of spikes they pay 6 times your side bet. if you get a color pair(red and red or black and black) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of hearts they play 12 times your side bet and if your ge a perfect pair(the same card) like a 6 of diamonds and a 6 of diamonds they pay you 25 times your side bet. my question is it worth it?
Like most side bets, it’s quite expensive. The house edge in six decks on the paytable you describe is 5.47%.
My advice about side bets is very simple: Ignore them.
Are there further lessons that deal with alternative counting strategies? Im going to check anyway, just wanted to say thanks for systematizing what i already knew, looking forward to reading more
I just saw information, and a UTube snippet on “Speed Count”, where one only counts the plus cards (2-7) played during the hand, and then subtracts the number of hands played to get a running count. Of course, they recommend their system highly, claiming a 1% player advantage using the system. What are the betting increase levels? ( I presume since they use 2-7 like KO and REKO, one starts out at -2 x [number of hands] )
I have tried to use REKO. I keep up the count just fine at 2 deck games, but have difficulty maintaining count at 6-deck due to not wanting to merely sit and stare at cards throughout.
What’s the “review” of SpeedCount.
I am not a fan of Speed Count, unless you really feel that you are unable to manage anything more powerful. Speed Count is quite a bit weaker than KO or Hi-Lo, and when you are playing a six-deck game it really extends the number of hands you must play before you reach the fabled “long run”. My recommendation is keep working at maintaining the count using KO. I have a tough time believing the claimed 1% player edge using Speed Count, except under very good conditions and a large bet spread. KO and Hi-Lo can rarely achieve that level in practice, with 0.5% to 0.7% being a more typical edge in a six deck game. Does Speed Count work? Yes, but your edge will be smaller, and it will take more hands to reach a high likelihood of being ahead of the variance of the game.
Привіт, Кене,
I have your Advanced Card Set (which are very helpful and I would highly recommend to everyone). I am building a custom playing strategy in CVBJ for DD as I’ve been wanting to learn correct BS and Indices instead of the composite. Comparing the indices on your 2D, H17 card to the matrix you’ve linked above, I’m seeing several differences, are there certain rule assumptions in the two sets of indices that I’m overlooking?
Just looking at the top of hard total section for example (>> card index, link index)
8 vs 5 >> 3, 6
8 vs 6 >> 2, 3
9 vs 2 >> -1, 2
9 vs 3 >> 1, 0
9 vs 4 >> -3, -3 (same)
9 vs 5 >> -5, -4
10 vs 9 >> -2, -1
Дякую!
I have struggled with how to deal with the discrepancies between the GameMaster’s published index numbers and the ones I spent so many hours devising for the strategy cards. GM himself noted that he used risk-adverse index numbers, and that explains most of the differences, although not all. My choice to not risk-adjust my indexes is based on the fact that exceptionally few players bet near a Kelly fraction of their true bankroll. Even players who do make bet sizing calculations based on Kelly tend to use the amount of money they have on hand for gambling right now, with no consideration of future income streams. Of course, that does reduce risk of ruin, and I am definitely not saying that is a bad idea. But it does taint any risk-averse calculations that are based on the lower bankroll estimates. If you choose to use risk-averse numbers, then the appropriate index number literally depends on the size of your bet on that specific hand at the time, which seems ridiculous to have to consider. And it is not like risk-averse indexes can magically make the game far less risky. They have a very small effect, despite the considerable complexities they cause. I prefer (and use) straight index numbers, and comfortably know that I’m doing the right thing because I am not risking anywhere near a Kelly fraction of my bankroll anyway. (In that case, risk-averse and non-adjusted indexes are identical anyway!)
I mention the differences between his indexes and mine inside the lesson at https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-school/lesson-14-advanced-course-part-2/ .
But the discrepancies do make me uncomfortable, and they require a lot of explanation to readers. Witness this lengthy reply! Since I cannot get in touch with GameMaster to discuss a resolution, I have left things as they are so far. But, as time passes, I become more convinced that I should simply edit all of his index numbers so that they are consistent with mine. I spent hundreds of hours optimizing my numbers, and have a great deal of confidence in their utility. Generating index numbers is much more involved than most people realize. Each number is also dependent on the choice of index numbers further down the decision chain. That is, determining an accurate index for 14vT also depends on the values chosen for 15vT and 16vT, since those are among the possible outcomes for hitting 15vT. It is a lengthy recursive process. I don’t know what method GameMaster used to generate his numbers, but I doubt that his methodology was as careful as mine. For that reason, I completely recommend my values. If there is a difference, I say use my number.
The good news is that when the index differs by more than a point or two, that indicates a situation where the edge likely changes slowly as the count changes. That means the most contested numbers are likely those that matter the least, where a point or three won’t affect your results much at all. The truth is that if you were to use all of his numbers vs all of my numbers, the difference in expected results is small.
Thanks, Ken, for the very detailed response. Your last point is especially helpful in explaining the larger discrepancies which were particularly concerning/confusing to me.
So for 9 vs 2 >> – 1, 2 which has a large difference and crosses the +/- threshold, the edge changes slower and the basic strategy decision to ‘double’ (index -1) is close enough that after factoring in risk-aversion it would change the BS decision to ‘hit’ (as the index is >=2)?
On a side note, though I know the incremental expected value is small, are you able to provide or can I purchase your full index sets beyond -5 to 5 for the six sets of rules if you have them?
During the iterative process of generating the indexes, I truncated the list to only -5 to +5 at each step of the process, so I do not have the outlying indexes. Wong’s Професійний блекджек has a wider range for shoe games in H17 and S17 if I recall correctly.
Привіт, я трохи заплутався в "європейській" стратегії (6 колод, S17, D9, DAS, NoSurr, NoPeek(!), ніякого повернення(!!) спліту або подвоєння на дилерському BJ), розрахованій за допомогою вашого движка. Хоча я розумію, що 11 проти десятки може зіткнутися з блекджеком дилера, все одно мені потрібно 15 десяток, щоб отримати 21, а дилеру - лише 4 тузи, щоб зібрати блекджек (рахується на колоду). Так чому б не зробити DD на 11 проти 10?
Наступний пункт - не ставити вісімки проти десятки або туза. Я легко можу зрозуміти, що не варто ставити вісімки проти А через те, що "там багато десяток". Але знову ж таки, чому б не розділити ці потворні 16 очок проти десятки дилера, якому потрібен "рідкісний" туз, щоб вибити мене? Ще більш незрозуміло: якщо вісімки не можна ділити проти десятки, то чому тузи повинні ділитися проти десятки?
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Коротка відповідь така: Просто так складаються цифри. Просто довіртеся стратегії.
Але я впевнений, що ця відповідь вас не дуже задовольнить. Тому я спробую дати вам більше інформації. Як щодо подвоєння 11vT? Ви не можете просто дивитися на ймовірність того, що вам випаде десятка, а дилеру - туз. Здебільшого ні те, ні інше не станеться. Складність полягає в тому, щоб порівняти всі інші можливі результати. Ви заробите гроші, коли подвоїте 11vT, але це буде не так багато, як ви заробите в середньому, просто зібравши карту. По-перше, при подвоєнні ви втрачаєте можливість зібрати більше однієї карти. Якщо ви витягнете туза, 2,3,4 або 5, ви хотіли б мати можливість зіграти ще раз, але вам це не дозволяється. Всі ці фактори враховуються в розрахунках, і в грі без дірок ви не повинні подвоювати 11vT. (Насправді, в описаній вами грі S17 ви не повинні подвоювати 11vT, навіть якщо дилер взяв відкриту карту).
Інші рішення мають такі ж складні пояснення. На питання "чому" базової стратегії рідко бувають прості відповіді. Розрахунки враховують усі можливі результати і показують вам найприбутковіший (або, частіше, найменш збитковий!) спосіб розіграти кожне рішення.
Can you please clarify the index play on 6D H17 DAS: Hard 17 vs A where it says RS-5; and 8,8 vs A where it says RP-2.
Just as much odds of bad play ending in a positive outcome (Take the 5, leave a bust card)
Not true, Black Jack is a game of 2 no more no less. It’s you and the dealer. Whatever anyone else does, shouldn’t affect you. Unless you were counting.