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You really should know it’s better to use 2-7 against 9 10 and A instead of 2-6 against 10 and A. Hi-lo may be the original and of historical significance, but it’s better to use 7’s as low cards and 9’s as high cards with only 8 as the one not counting for anything. It’s just as easy a method to do in practice, and it is better for everything except the insurance correlation (the truecount threshold for taking insurance is 4.000 doing it that way instead of 3.333 with hi-low, which is 20% higher, but of course the standard deviation of the count will be sqrt(1.2) times as high, 10% higher, with 1.2 times as many cards having point values).
If you find a place with a super promotion, so that you actually have a slight advantage even flatbetting, you could practice with another vector when the pressure is off and you can stop trying for the rest of the shoe, but the casinos will be most looking for hi-lo first and foremost, and if you are doing something that is not quite the same, yet works better, that means they are less likely to detect you, because you may be betting low when they’re expecting you to be betting high and vice versa, AND you’re more likely to leave the casino a winner instead of a loser.
As such, it is a bad plan to burn this into memory and indoctrinate yourself with the habit of seeing a 7 and an 8 and saying that’s 0 points. No, it’s 1 point. Or seeing a 4 and a 9 and saying that’s 1 point. No, it’s 0. Break that habit before you make it in the first place, don’t train yourself to follow an inferior method as if it was 2nd nature.
Actually, Hi-Lo has a betting correlation (BC) of 0.9682, while your recommendation (AKA the Silver Fox count) has a very slightly lower BC of 0.9625 instead. (See https://www.blackjackinfo.com/card-counting-efficiency-calculator/ или https://qfit.com/card-counting.htm) Yes, the playing efficiency (PE) is improved with Silver Fox, but the Insurance Correlation is far weaker. For beginning players I absolutely stick with my recommendation of either Hi-Lo or KO.
These counts are so similar in practice that you are unlikely to gain much camouflage value by including the 7s and 9s. Yes, I agree that the 7 is effectively a low card, and the 9 effectively a high card, but to weight them the same as the others is iffy. If these kinds of things concern you, use the more complex count that I actually use, Wong’s Halves.
I disagree. 1-deck games are not lucrative, they always come with horrible caveats, like blackjack paying 1-1. I’d even say the 6 deck games are better than the 2 deck games. The 6 deck games, they usually have the cutcard 1 deck before the end. The 2 deck games, they also have the cutcard 1 deck before the end. But the standard deviation of the count is a parabolic function of your progress through the shoe. Meaning 1 deck before the end, you’ll be at the top of the parabola of a 2-deck game, in a 6-deck game, it’s most of the way to the base of it. The bottom line is that the standard deviation of the count, 1 deck before the end of a 6-deck shoe, will be sqrt(5/3) times as high as it is 1 deck before the end of a 2-deck shoe. It’s easier for that 1 deck at the end to be jampacked full of the high cards from all 6 decks than it is to be jampacked with just the high cards of 2 decks, basically. You just have to suffer through counting through 5 decks accurately, that’s the cost. But the minimum bet of a 6 deck game is generally 5 and sometimes 3 dollars as opposed to 25 or 15 in the 2 deck game. Your expected earnings are actually about the same if you play to minimize risk of ruin in either case, except the risk of ruin in the 6 deck game is smaller for a given bankroll size.
As for playing face down, what I do is just count them when they’re overturned and I don’t play if there are more than 2 other people at the table face down. But who needs that, 6 deck games are almost always face up.
There are still good one-deck games in northern Nevada, but you are right that the games are rarely found elsewhere. The GameMaster’s lessons were obviously written a few years ago when 1-deck 3:2 games were not dinosaurs.
The “M” isn’t a variable. It’s a mental shorthand for keeping track of the fact that the count is negative. Instead of thinking “minus 1”, just think “M1”.
The answers for questions 7 and 9 are exactly correct as posted.
I live in France. I was a Blackjack player who use indexes by Stanford WONG, I am mastered the way Hi-lo. Because of big accident, I had a problem for my bankroll. If somebody need to organize a blackjack team, please tell me. Thanks!
Привет, Кен, я изучил Uston Advanced плюс минус, правда, с трудом справляюсь со всеми цифрами - есть ли смысл учить цифры минус выше -5, вы же не собираетесь так часто с ними сталкиваться. Я хотел бы получить ваш совет по этому поводу... и как вы думаете, это лучший счет для сегодняшнего действия или я должен переключиться на высокий низкий я не думаю, что я в состоянии играть 2 уровня счет спасибо spraymaster и я также из той же области вы из хотелось бы встретиться с вами когда-нибудь я восхищаюсь все ваш сайт очень много и очень уважительно к вашим знаниям я хотел бы найти кого-то, чтобы помочь найти мелодию
Несколько моментов:
1) Вы правы в том, что игнорируете высокие отрицательные показатели. Вы все равно не должны играть много таких подсчетов, а когда играете, то у вас уже нет минимальной ставки. Не стоит тратить усилия на знание индексов для таких ситуаций.
2) Я рекомендую всем начинать с KO или Hi-Lo, пока вы не станете достаточно опытными. Дополнительные ошибки, которые вы будете делать при сложном подсчете, в сочетании с умственной усталостью приведут к тому, что вы, скорее всего, будете хуже справляться с продвинутым подсчетом. Я знаю одного профессионала, который до сих пор использует исключительно нокаут. Он понимает, что простота использования действительно важна.
3) Вы упомянули, что родом из той же местности, но я подозреваю, что вы принимаете меня за гейм-мастер. Что касается меня, то я недавно переехал из Миссисипи в Техас.
hi ken !!! these choices are the same also for european blackjack ? in very bad- low counts a hand like pair of 6 against a 4 or a 5 dealers how should be played ? hit stop or split ?knowing the remaining cards it plays a little with your mind and the bs .thanks 4 your answer
No-hole-card rules only change anything when the dealer has a ten or an Ace up. Therefore all strategies and index numbers other than against the dealer ten and dealer Ace are identical in the US game and the European game.
I don’t have index numbers for not splitting sixes against a 4 or 5. They would likely be worse than -10. In the event you did reach such an index, you would hit instead of split. In general, remember that strategy variation is far less important than bet variation, and you can easily do more damage than good by deviating from basic strategy when you aren’t sure of the appropriate index. If you don’t know the index for sure, just play basic strategy, no matter what you think you know about the deck composition. Index numbers are complicated, and deviating when you shouldn’t is expensive.
i have also hitting in negative counts my 13 and 14 againt dealers 3/4/5/6 and most of the times i saved all the players but thet never remember this they only remember when i took the “bust ” card instead to leave it gor the dealer.i dont even try to explained them ….
Вопрос в том, что происходит при отрицательных подсчетах. Многих людей фраза "-2 и более" сбивает с толку, и они могут подумать, что она означает "более отрицательный", а не ожидаемые -2,-1,0,+1 и т. д.
Рекомендация Эла использовать "лучше" или "хуже" позволяет избежать этой путаницы.
В конечном счете, конечно, делайте то, что вам подходит! Если вам ясен смысл индексов, вы можете использовать для запоминания любую фразу, которая вам больше подходит.
The answer is it depends on the parameters of the game. Where the cutcard is. If you’re giving the money in pounds, you’re probably playing by different rules, in England don’t they check for blackjack after you double down? In America you don’t even have an opportunity to double down or split if the dealer has blackjack. In the US though, if the cutcard is 1 deck before the end, if the dealer checks for blackjack first, if double after split and resplit aces is allowed, then the correct answer is to add 3 times the minimum bet for each 1 the truecount gets past 1.8. You bet the minimum bet as long as the dealer has the advantage. You add to it when you start having the advantage, which is at a truecount of 1.8, that’s the breakeven point. So if the truecount is 0, you bet the minimum. I the truecount is 1, you bet the minimum. If the truecount is 2, you bet the minimum, if the truecount is 3, you bet 4 times the minimum, if the truecount is 4, you’d bet about 7 times the minimum. This is how you minimize risk of ruin. If you want to maximize statistical expected return on a linear scale without concern of ruin, you would bet the minimum bet whenever you have the disadvantage and the maximum bet whenever you have the advantage, however slight, with nothing in between, and if you can do that, you can expect to lose all your money in a hurry and if you don’t, you can expect to be thrown out of the casino in about 20 minutes.
You really should know it’s better to use 2-7 against 9 10 and A instead of 2-6 against 10 and A. Hi-lo may be the original and of historical significance, but it’s better to use 7’s as low cards and 9’s as high cards with only 8 as the one not counting for anything. It’s just as easy a method to do in practice, and it is better for everything except the insurance correlation (the truecount threshold for taking insurance is 4.000 doing it that way instead of 3.333 with hi-low, which is 20% higher, but of course the standard deviation of the count will be sqrt(1.2) times as high, 10% higher, with 1.2 times as many cards having point values).
If you find a place with a super promotion, so that you actually have a slight advantage even flatbetting, you could practice with another vector when the pressure is off and you can stop trying for the rest of the shoe, but the casinos will be most looking for hi-lo first and foremost, and if you are doing something that is not quite the same, yet works better, that means they are less likely to detect you, because you may be betting low when they’re expecting you to be betting high and vice versa, AND you’re more likely to leave the casino a winner instead of a loser.
As such, it is a bad plan to burn this into memory and indoctrinate yourself with the habit of seeing a 7 and an 8 and saying that’s 0 points. No, it’s 1 point. Or seeing a 4 and a 9 and saying that’s 1 point. No, it’s 0. Break that habit before you make it in the first place, don’t train yourself to follow an inferior method as if it was 2nd nature.
Actually, Hi-Lo has a betting correlation (BC) of 0.9682, while your recommendation (AKA the Silver Fox count) has a very slightly lower BC of 0.9625 instead. (See https://www.blackjackinfo.com/card-counting-efficiency-calculator/ или https://qfit.com/card-counting.htm) Yes, the playing efficiency (PE) is improved with Silver Fox, but the Insurance Correlation is far weaker. For beginning players I absolutely stick with my recommendation of either Hi-Lo or KO.
These counts are so similar in practice that you are unlikely to gain much camouflage value by including the 7s and 9s. Yes, I agree that the 7 is effectively a low card, and the 9 effectively a high card, but to weight them the same as the others is iffy. If these kinds of things concern you, use the more complex count that I actually use, Wong’s Halves.
I disagree. 1-deck games are not lucrative, they always come with horrible caveats, like blackjack paying 1-1. I’d even say the 6 deck games are better than the 2 deck games. The 6 deck games, they usually have the cutcard 1 deck before the end. The 2 deck games, they also have the cutcard 1 deck before the end. But the standard deviation of the count is a parabolic function of your progress through the shoe. Meaning 1 deck before the end, you’ll be at the top of the parabola of a 2-deck game, in a 6-deck game, it’s most of the way to the base of it. The bottom line is that the standard deviation of the count, 1 deck before the end of a 6-deck shoe, will be sqrt(5/3) times as high as it is 1 deck before the end of a 2-deck shoe. It’s easier for that 1 deck at the end to be jampacked full of the high cards from all 6 decks than it is to be jampacked with just the high cards of 2 decks, basically. You just have to suffer through counting through 5 decks accurately, that’s the cost. But the minimum bet of a 6 deck game is generally 5 and sometimes 3 dollars as opposed to 25 or 15 in the 2 deck game. Your expected earnings are actually about the same if you play to minimize risk of ruin in either case, except the risk of ruin in the 6 deck game is smaller for a given bankroll size.
As for playing face down, what I do is just count them when they’re overturned and I don’t play if there are more than 2 other people at the table face down. But who needs that, 6 deck games are almost always face up.
There are still good one-deck games in northern Nevada, but you are right that the games are rarely found elsewhere. The GameMaster’s lessons were obviously written a few years ago when 1-deck 3:2 games were not dinosaurs.
7 and 9, your answers are wrong. 7 is 0.4*M-2 and 9 is M/3-1. You forgot to divide your variable M by the number of decks left too.
The “M” isn’t a variable. It’s a mental shorthand for keeping track of the fact that the count is negative. Instead of thinking “minus 1”, just think “M1”.
The answers for questions 7 and 9 are exactly correct as posted.
I live in France. I was a Blackjack player who use indexes by Stanford WONG, I am mastered the way Hi-lo. Because of big accident, I had a problem for my bankroll. If somebody need to organize a blackjack team, please tell me. Thanks!
Привет, Кен, я изучил Uston Advanced плюс минус, правда, с трудом справляюсь со всеми цифрами - есть ли смысл учить цифры минус выше -5, вы же не собираетесь так часто с ними сталкиваться. Я хотел бы получить ваш совет по этому поводу... и как вы думаете, это лучший счет для сегодняшнего действия или я должен переключиться на высокий низкий я не думаю, что я в состоянии играть 2 уровня счет спасибо spraymaster и я также из той же области вы из хотелось бы встретиться с вами когда-нибудь я восхищаюсь все ваш сайт очень много и очень уважительно к вашим знаниям я хотел бы найти кого-то, чтобы помочь найти мелодию
Несколько моментов:
1) Вы правы в том, что игнорируете высокие отрицательные показатели. Вы все равно не должны играть много таких подсчетов, а когда играете, то у вас уже нет минимальной ставки. Не стоит тратить усилия на знание индексов для таких ситуаций.
2) Я рекомендую всем начинать с KO или Hi-Lo, пока вы не станете достаточно опытными. Дополнительные ошибки, которые вы будете делать при сложном подсчете, в сочетании с умственной усталостью приведут к тому, что вы, скорее всего, будете хуже справляться с продвинутым подсчетом. Я знаю одного профессионала, который до сих пор использует исключительно нокаут. Он понимает, что простота использования действительно важна.
3) Вы упомянули, что родом из той же местности, но я подозреваю, что вы принимаете меня за гейм-мастер. Что касается меня, то я недавно переехал из Миссисипи в Техас.
Хорошо, спасибо за помощь, я попробую это держать вас в курсе через несколько месяцев
hi ken !!! these choices are the same also for european blackjack ? in very bad- low counts a hand like pair of 6 against a 4 or a 5 dealers how should be played ? hit stop or split ?knowing the remaining cards it plays a little with your mind and the bs .thanks 4 your answer
No-hole-card rules only change anything when the dealer has a ten or an Ace up. Therefore all strategies and index numbers other than against the dealer ten and dealer Ace are identical in the US game and the European game.
I don’t have index numbers for not splitting sixes against a 4 or 5. They would likely be worse than -10. In the event you did reach such an index, you would hit instead of split. In general, remember that strategy variation is far less important than bet variation, and you can easily do more damage than good by deviating from basic strategy when you aren’t sure of the appropriate index. If you don’t know the index for sure, just play basic strategy, no matter what you think you know about the deck composition. Index numbers are complicated, and deviating when you shouldn’t is expensive.
ken please inform us when your new project will be ready !i wish all the best !
i have also hitting in negative counts my 13 and 14 againt dealers 3/4/5/6 and most of the times i saved all the players but thet never remember this they only remember when i took the “bust ” card instead to leave it gor the dealer.i dont even try to explained them ….
Thanks for the answer ken.i hope all the best 4 you !
Я использую термины больше и меньше. +2 или больше стойка, +1 или меньше хит. Для меня это проще и понятнее.
Вопрос в том, что происходит при отрицательных подсчетах. Многих людей фраза "-2 и более" сбивает с толку, и они могут подумать, что она означает "более отрицательный", а не ожидаемые -2,-1,0,+1 и т. д.
Рекомендация Эла использовать "лучше" или "хуже" позволяет избежать этой путаницы.
В конечном счете, конечно, делайте то, что вам подходит! Если вам ясен смысл индексов, вы можете использовать для запоминания любую фразу, которая вам больше подходит.
Спасибо за участие.
Thanks, Ken. He was a great dad!!
Really helpful website and app; wish I had known about this in the 1st lesson before I made up my flashcards…
The answer is it depends on the parameters of the game. Where the cutcard is. If you’re giving the money in pounds, you’re probably playing by different rules, in England don’t they check for blackjack after you double down? In America you don’t even have an opportunity to double down or split if the dealer has blackjack. In the US though, if the cutcard is 1 deck before the end, if the dealer checks for blackjack first, if double after split and resplit aces is allowed, then the correct answer is to add 3 times the minimum bet for each 1 the truecount gets past 1.8. You bet the minimum bet as long as the dealer has the advantage. You add to it when you start having the advantage, which is at a truecount of 1.8, that’s the breakeven point. So if the truecount is 0, you bet the minimum. I the truecount is 1, you bet the minimum. If the truecount is 2, you bet the minimum, if the truecount is 3, you bet 4 times the minimum, if the truecount is 4, you’d bet about 7 times the minimum. This is how you minimize risk of ruin. If you want to maximize statistical expected return on a linear scale without concern of ruin, you would bet the minimum bet whenever you have the disadvantage and the maximum bet whenever you have the advantage, however slight, with nothing in between, and if you can do that, you can expect to lose all your money in a hurry and if you don’t, you can expect to be thrown out of the casino in about 20 minutes.