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The advanced strategy chart I am using for double deck assumes surrender is an option but it is not in all the games I play. So, for 15 against a 10 where it says to surrender against a 10 or stand if TC is at least 4, I assume all I do is replace surrender with hit in this case and I am good, is that right? In other words just treat the surrenders as if they said hit but I still stand if the TC is at least as high as index.
Your article. I freely admit that I hate bad players. I’ve gotten mad several times at players not playing the right way. The last time I played this guy hit on a 12 when the dealer showed a 6. I just can’t understand that play. Of course he busts with a face card and the dealer makes her hand with a lesser card. The dealer would have bust if he doesn’t hit. I am sorry, but I just can’t stand it. The guy cost the whole table by doing that and he did that a few other times as well. But maybe I should not get mad about that. It is hard to not get mad when you have a lot on a hand and this idiot just took the card that would have busted the dealer. I don’t know how to reconcile that.
You have played a total of 200 hands and you’re up almost $5000, when betting $5 in bad counts and $50 at true +2 or higher?
That is almost impossible.
You ask if you have been lucky. Well, your expected win on 200 hands of this game is probably $10 or less. Does that answer your question? 🙂
By asking this question, it is clear that you have not read much about blackjack. Get yourself a decent book and understand it before you go back.
The cards have not yet been reprinted, and orders will include this error for at least the next few months.
Note that the error is only in the legend, not in the charts themselves. It is still clear what the correct strategy is for each decision.
Even in the legend, it is pretty easy to see that one of the “Double” instructions should be “DS”.
Quick question about getting up from the table when the true count drops to m1 or lower. Let’s say that after just 1 or 2 hands on a double deck table the count drops to m1, do I get up and leave? Or stick it out for a few more hands? What is the time limit on this?
Leaving at minor negative counts in double deck quickly becomes impractical because it happens so frequently and there are typically only a few double deck tables that you can switch to. When playing double deck I generally play through the negative counts, except for taking bathroom breaks and phone call breaks during the worst counts.
I decided I am going to learn the art of card counting. I did spend 2 hours writing down the tutorial from my phone. Because I am to broke to get it printed. 5 Hours went into reading and reading more about the 0s, +’s, -‘s and all other crab who knows whos did blog. Then here and there food for the mind, which is helpful. But I love the honesty and the motivation in this article. There is hope, hope to buy a printer and hope for a girl like me to earn a extra income. Am going to glue myself to a deck of cards till I can get that 0. Then will I gamble and loose and then hopefully master the sience of 21 * 6 packed in a shoe. Count it from 0 to 0 and kick some boody.
OK, 200 shoes makes a lot more sense.
You’ve still been very lucky, but you are well within the range of possible outcomes.
As a guess, I would put your expected win somewhere around $1300.
You would need a simulation to get specific numbers.
I played DD hit S17 or S17 any casinos but i won a little and down a lot of money.I dont know whats going on i played basic strategy counting cards Hi Low counts.But the problem the positive counts i cant get my big bets and my cards is always bad,
Iam thinking to stay away from the casino.Do i need not to stay my hard 14 or hard 15 against the dealer 20 if the count is +4TC
which remaning 2decks?or less?And how much do i need money to play $50 minimum bet in 1 session?thanks
The advantage in counting is quite small, so losing streaks are inevitable even if you are playing correctly. It is especially frustrating to have a losing streak at the very beginning, because you have nothing to compare it to. I would expect that most counters that start off with poor results give up the game. Players who begin with a winning streak instead will eventually have the same losing streaks, but they will have also experienced the other side of the coin which makes it far more tolerable.
You ask about standing with hard 14 or 15 vs a dealer 20. I assume you mean a dealer ten up. (Stop assuming that the dealer has a face card underneath. It is not true, and not helpful.) You confusingly mention a true count of +4 but then ask about remaining decks of 2 or less. You should stand with 15vT at a true count of +4 or more no matter how many decks are left. The conversion to a true count already takes into account the number of decks left. For example, with 2 decks left, that means you need a running count of +8 or more to stand with 15vT. As for the other hand, you should not be standing with 14vT. Just hit it.
Time away from the game could provide a much needed chance to improve your understanding before you go back, particularly if you are playing a $50 minimum bet game.
How much money is needed for a session at a $50 table? Well, that depends on how long you play and what your larger bets are. For an hour or so, you should have no less than $2000 or $3000 available. Preferably more, because you will often run out at that level. You need to be spreading to a top bet of at least $400 to make this game viable. I would prefer a session bankroll of $5000 for that game.
Yeah but it then becomes really obvious that your card counting had the casino will kick you out. I wouldn’t bother, if it were really that easy, everyone would be doing it and the casinos will lose money.
I agree partially. I agree that no one should split tens, only because I feel bad for them on a personal level because they obviously don’t know how to play blackjack.
But I don’t agree with the notion that the 3rd baseman who plays “non-conventionally” screws up every other player. I’ve been playing blackjack for decades and have sat with these “bad” 3rd basemen. A lot of times other players would immediately leave the table because hey don’t want to play with that “idiot.”
I think that most players have selective memory. They tend to focus and remember the instances where the 3rd baseman’s stupid play cost them the hand. In reality, that “stupid” play oftens sets up the next “good” round (blackjack, winning splits, etc.). In other words, what goes around, comes around.
In closing, I feel that the everyday player should just stick with his best blackjack strategy and disregard other player’s deficiencies. If it is too intolerable, by all means, just move on.
Ah, I see the source of your confusion. The line you quoted from the GameMaster’s lesson is always correct when you are talking about the double or don’t double index numbers, but for hit/stand indexes it is only true for positive index numbers. That’s not helpful!
Since he makes the statement in a section where he is discussing soft hand doubling, I’m sure that’s what he was thinking about, but it sure is confusing. I’ll try to come up with a way to clarify it in the lesson. (I wish I could work with him on it, but his health situation must have worsened. See GameMaster.)
Despite his wording, index numbers should not be thought of as the point at which you change from basic strategy.
To see exactly what each group of index numbers does mean, see the section titled What are the different kinds of Index Numbers? near the bottom of the advanced card instructions page. Note that I don’t refer to basic strategy in that section, but instead simply explain what changes at the index number. That is a safer way of describing the meaning of index numbers, and doesn’t lead to the discrepancies that the GameMaster’s wording causes.
Thanks for the feedback. I need to figure out how to best clarify Lesson 23.
Якщо ви зіграєте тисячу роздач, скільки з них ви здасте?
The advanced strategy chart I am using for double deck assumes surrender is an option but it is not in all the games I play. So, for 15 against a 10 where it says to surrender against a 10 or stand if TC is at least 4, I assume all I do is replace surrender with hit in this case and I am good, is that right? In other words just treat the surrenders as if they said hit but I still stand if the TC is at least as high as index.
Correct. When you cannot surrender just hit, unless the true count is at or higher than the hit/stand index number.
Your article. I freely admit that I hate bad players. I’ve gotten mad several times at players not playing the right way. The last time I played this guy hit on a 12 when the dealer showed a 6. I just can’t understand that play. Of course he busts with a face card and the dealer makes her hand with a lesser card. The dealer would have bust if he doesn’t hit. I am sorry, but I just can’t stand it. The guy cost the whole table by doing that and he did that a few other times as well. But maybe I should not get mad about that. It is hard to not get mad when you have a lot on a hand and this idiot just took the card that would have busted the dealer. I don’t know how to reconcile that.
Кен,
I’m playing 8 decks, H17 , DAS, Late Surrender , Peek , 75 % penetration.
I threw 200 boxes, 20 boxes a day.
80 % of the time I played alone, just me and the dealer , the other 20 % at the maximum with another player .
My bets are fixed : $ 5 in true negative score or = 2. I use also the top ten and leave the table when the true count is too low.
The result so far is an average US 495.25 a day, I’m making 4925.50 in total.
I’m lucky?
I am within the standard deviation ?
I can improve my bets ?
You have played a total of 200 hands and you’re up almost $5000, when betting $5 in bad counts and $50 at true +2 or higher?
That is almost impossible.
You ask if you have been lucky. Well, your expected win on 200 hands of this game is probably $10 or less. Does that answer your question? 🙂
By asking this question, it is clear that you have not read much about blackjack. Get yourself a decent book and understand it before you go back.
sorry , when the true count and more than 2 I bet $ 50 .
Has this been corrected? Or will all future orders still have this issue?
The cards have not yet been reprinted, and orders will include this error for at least the next few months.
Note that the error is only in the legend, not in the charts themselves. It is still clear what the correct strategy is for each decision.
Even in the legend, it is pretty easy to see that one of the “Double” instructions should be “DS”.
Quick question about getting up from the table when the true count drops to m1 or lower. Let’s say that after just 1 or 2 hands on a double deck table the count drops to m1, do I get up and leave? Or stick it out for a few more hands? What is the time limit on this?
Leaving at minor negative counts in double deck quickly becomes impractical because it happens so frequently and there are typically only a few double deck tables that you can switch to. When playing double deck I generally play through the negative counts, except for taking bathroom breaks and phone call breaks during the worst counts.
well said!
I decided I am going to learn the art of card counting. I did spend 2 hours writing down the tutorial from my phone. Because I am to broke to get it printed. 5 Hours went into reading and reading more about the 0s, +’s, -‘s and all other crab who knows whos did blog. Then here and there food for the mind, which is helpful. But I love the honesty and the motivation in this article. There is hope, hope to buy a printer and hope for a girl like me to earn a extra income. Am going to glue myself to a deck of cards till I can get that 0. Then will I gamble and loose and then hopefully master the sience of 21 * 6 packed in a shoe. Count it from 0 to 0 and kick some boody.
Ken ,
They are not 200 hands but 200 shoes.
My balance is too loud ?
This above standard deviation ?
OK, 200 shoes makes a lot more sense.
You’ve still been very lucky, but you are well within the range of possible outcomes.
As a guess, I would put your expected win somewhere around $1300.
You would need a simulation to get specific numbers.
I played DD hit S17 or S17 any casinos but i won a little and down a lot of money.I dont know whats going on i played basic strategy counting cards Hi Low counts.But the problem the positive counts i cant get my big bets and my cards is always bad,
Iam thinking to stay away from the casino.Do i need not to stay my hard 14 or hard 15 against the dealer 20 if the count is +4TC
which remaning 2decks?or less?And how much do i need money to play $50 minimum bet in 1 session?thanks
The advantage in counting is quite small, so losing streaks are inevitable even if you are playing correctly. It is especially frustrating to have a losing streak at the very beginning, because you have nothing to compare it to. I would expect that most counters that start off with poor results give up the game. Players who begin with a winning streak instead will eventually have the same losing streaks, but they will have also experienced the other side of the coin which makes it far more tolerable.
You ask about standing with hard 14 or 15 vs a dealer 20. I assume you mean a dealer ten up. (Stop assuming that the dealer has a face card underneath. It is not true, and not helpful.) You confusingly mention a true count of +4 but then ask about remaining decks of 2 or less. You should stand with 15vT at a true count of +4 or more no matter how many decks are left. The conversion to a true count already takes into account the number of decks left. For example, with 2 decks left, that means you need a running count of +8 or more to stand with 15vT. As for the other hand, you should not be standing with 14vT. Just hit it.
Time away from the game could provide a much needed chance to improve your understanding before you go back, particularly if you are playing a $50 minimum bet game.
How much money is needed for a session at a $50 table? Well, that depends on how long you play and what your larger bets are. For an hour or so, you should have no less than $2000 or $3000 available. Preferably more, because you will often run out at that level. You need to be spreading to a top bet of at least $400 to make this game viable. I would prefer a session bankroll of $5000 for that game.
Yeah but it then becomes really obvious that your card counting had the casino will kick you out. I wouldn’t bother, if it were really that easy, everyone would be doing it and the casinos will lose money.
I agree partially. I agree that no one should split tens, only because I feel bad for them on a personal level because they obviously don’t know how to play blackjack.
But I don’t agree with the notion that the 3rd baseman who plays “non-conventionally” screws up every other player. I’ve been playing blackjack for decades and have sat with these “bad” 3rd basemen. A lot of times other players would immediately leave the table because hey don’t want to play with that “idiot.”
I think that most players have selective memory. They tend to focus and remember the instances where the 3rd baseman’s stupid play cost them the hand. In reality, that “stupid” play oftens sets up the next “good” round (blackjack, winning splits, etc.). In other words, what goes around, comes around.
In closing, I feel that the everyday player should just stick with his best blackjack strategy and disregard other player’s deficiencies. If it is too intolerable, by all means, just move on.
Ah, I see the source of your confusion. The line you quoted from the GameMaster’s lesson is always correct when you are talking about the double or don’t double index numbers, but for hit/stand indexes it is only true for positive index numbers. That’s not helpful!
Since he makes the statement in a section where he is discussing soft hand doubling, I’m sure that’s what he was thinking about, but it sure is confusing. I’ll try to come up with a way to clarify it in the lesson. (I wish I could work with him on it, but his health situation must have worsened. See GameMaster.)
Despite his wording, index numbers should not be thought of as the point at which you change from basic strategy.
To see exactly what each group of index numbers does mean, see the section titled What are the different kinds of Index Numbers? near the bottom of the advanced card instructions page. Note that I don’t refer to basic strategy in that section, but instead simply explain what changes at the index number. That is a safer way of describing the meaning of index numbers, and doesn’t lead to the discrepancies that the GameMaster’s wording causes.
Thanks for the feedback. I need to figure out how to best clarify Lesson 23.