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My casino rules are : surrender(im not sure if it’s early or late), 6-deck game, stand on S17(not sure either), 3 splits allowed, double any 2 cards, double after split allowed. Blackjack pay 3:2.
AND: Blackjack with the same symbol of the cards (hearts for example) pays 2:1.
If the box has value of “21” with 7 cards in the box, it pays 5:1.
If there are three sevens with the same symbol in the box, it pays 5:1.
I think those are pretty good rules. Maybe even slight edge is on my side?
Can you tell me what should i change in my basic strategy because of the “AND” part above?
Also, my main question is:
Bet spread is 2$ – 100$ here. Can you tell me what is the minimum bankroll for a 3h play? I read in GameMaster’s school that it should be 50x top bet, but i suppose that’s because the bet spread there was 5$-50$ which is pretty bad. I don’t have 5000$ dollars. I have like 500$ maximum. I want to train for a couple of months, and then go to the casino, and see what can I do. I hope there won’t be that losing streak right away. But I’m fully aware of it.
And if I am able to stay disciplined, and focused, i will probably go in the casino with much bigger bankroll, after some decent time of practice.
But I’m asking you if 200-300-500$ is enough for this first time, with this 2$-100$ betting spread, or I should just wait, and save more money?
Suited blackjack paying 2:1 adds 0.57% to the game. The base game you describe is around -0.58% if H17, or -0.36% if S17.
Suited 777 paying 5:1 adds only 0.008%, and 7-card 21 is probably less than that.
The overall net is a breakeven basic strategy game for H17, and +0.22% for S17 games. That’s a nice base advantage for the game.
The only strategy change is don’t split your 7s if they are suited. Hit for the possible 5:1.
If you are betting a top bet of $100, even if you are willing to take the risk of losing the bank, you need to have the table stakes to double and split as needed. Long term, I’m more conservative than the GameMaster. I advocate a full bankroll of 100X your top bet instead of his 50x. But for short-term plays, accepting the very high risk of losing your entire stake, I still would not sit down at the table with less than 10 times my expected top bet for the session. And I would never make a single bet that I couldn’t afford to split and double on the two hands.
Sorry Ken, one more question, so you can answer them at once.
You said in previous replies in this topic that someone should stand on a true count 4 and 15 vs dealer’s 10? That’s not what basic strategy says. I mean, basic strategy doesn’t correlate to counting in any way. So I am wondering, what do you actually mean? I didn’t read whole “GameMaster’s school ” yet, so i suppose these are some of the advanced strategies?
Best regards man, and i apologize for being boring.
Basic strategy says hit 15vT. But card counters who know the deck is full of high cards (with a true count of +4 or higher) can utilize that information to know that standing is now better than hitting in that case. Each strategy decision has a tipping point like this (an index number), where the strategy changes if the remaining deck composition is far enough from average. But by all means, focus first on getting basic strategy down cold. When I started, I used card counting for over a year with just basic strategy before I added strategy changes to my game.
I’m in Brazil, where casinos are forbidden. So, I need to play in online casinos, using the live blackjack mode. The rules of the casino are: 8-deck game, cut off in the 50% of the shoe, stand on S17, double any 2 cards, double after split allowed, except for the double Aces (only one addition card). Blackjack pays 3:2.
My question is: With these conditions, is it possible to beat the dealer?
An 8-deck 50% game is very tough, but it could be beaten with a large enough spread if you are also willing to leave in any negative count. It’s going to be a frustrating grind, and because the edge will be so small, you could play perfectly for many hundreds of hours and still be behind due to bad luck. I wouldn’t waste time on this game.
Пожалуйста, пришлите на мой адрес электронной почты список казино Вегаса, в которых еще есть столы 3:2, и какие казино вы рекомендуете как лучшие. Спасибо.
I just started counting cards and i found 2 casinos with good rules but i don’t know which is better. In both casinos the dealer stands on S17, double on any 2 pairs is allowed, resplitting is allowed and after splitting aces you get one card and black jack pays 3:2. But the first one is an 8-deck with 85% penetration while the other is 4-deck with 65-75% penetration. Which one should i prefer?
The off-the-top difference between 4 decks and 8 decks is only around 0.1%.
Because the penetration is so much better on your 8-deck game, I would choose the 8-deck game for card counting.
(Just to be clear: Basic strategy players would be better off in the 4-deck game, since penetration doesn’t matter to them.)
Привет, Кен, у меня вопрос.
В вашей базовой матрице статегии вы пишете, что нужно разделить 8,8s против T или A, но в матрице для британского казино вы просто бьете. В чем разница между ними?
В Великобритании дилер не сдает дырявую карту, и любые удвоения или сплиты уязвимы перед возможным блэкджеком дилера. В США дилер проверяет наличие блэкджека непосредственно перед началом игры, поэтому вы не сможете удвоиться или разделиться, если у него блэкджек. Это различие делает неразумным удвоение или сплит в Великобритании, когда у дилера на руках десятка или туз. Одно исключение: В Великобритании все еще сплитуют тузы против десятки дилера.
Чтобы получить подходящую стратегию для этих игр, вы можете использовать Стратегический двигатель и выберите "Без подглядывания".
I have a question about which count is more preferred. I play in 2 casinos one of which is 4deck with 75% penetration and the other one is 6deck with 85% penetration. Obviously the best casino to choose is the second one but my question is that i use Hi-Lo count, but some say that the Knock-out count is more preferred for shoe games even if it is an unbalanced count, so which of these 2 counts is the best for these 2 casinos??
I find Hi-Lo profitable and easy but i find KO count easy as well, so does the KO count have more success than the Hi-Lo count for the casinos that i attend to???
Will i have more success by using KO count rather than Hi-Lo count in those casinos??
Please Help 🙂
Hey Ken i am counting card for almost a year and i always prefer to play alone with the dealer. Lets assume that the true count is +4 and i would bet 40 pounds. Is it better to open 2 or 3 boxes instead of playing in one box? Will i reduce the standard deviation? And will i have more or less profit in the long run?
Wagering the same amount split up over two spots instead of one will decrease your variance. In that case, your expected win is still the same but the swings will be smaller.
Also, because the variance is lower, you can afford to make a larger total bet instead. If your bankroll allows you to make a $100 bet on one spot, you can afford to bet $75 on each of two spots and incur the same overall risk. With total action of $150 instead of $100, your win rate goes up but risk stays the same.
Кен, при попытке распечатать этот урок графики не печатаются в цвете. Не знаю почему, но на экране они отображаются нормально, а в цвете не печатаются.
Love your site and tutorial. I’ve really been enjoying playing blackjack because of it. However, I’m confused or have a problem with one thing. You say to walk away when TC is -1. If I actually walked away, I’d wind up never playing. -1 occurs very very often, I don’t understand how you expect people to walk away. One time I went to the casino with my friends and we took up the whole table, so I was able to sit out a bunch of hands…when the count was negative, without looking suspicious. That was awesome. But I just can’t figure out how to do it when playing not-with-friends without looking suspicious. Can you give me a few pointers? Thanks
I think GameMaster’s advice here is impractical for most players. As you note, a true count of -1 happens very often. Too often for most players to want to, or even be able to switch tables.
Realistically, switching tables at TC -2 is still tough but manageable if you are in a casino with plenty of tables.
If that is still too difficult, at least save your restroom breaks for when the count really tanks.
Yes, if you leave every 6-deck shoe at -1, you’ll be walking a lot. I personally never left at that minor a negative count. But if you can do it, it does really help the expected results. In 2-deck games, you can afford to play through a lot more negative counts and still have very good overall results. That is why the majority of my play has been at 2-deck games. They are simply a lot easier to beat.
As for sitting down at a shoe already in progress, there’s no problem with it, although you are less likely to reach a positive situation. It’s like playing a game with poor penetration until the first shuffle. Just treat any discards when you begin as unseen decks, just like the cards still in the shoe. For that reason, it’s simpler and better to just come in immediately after a shuffle instead. But you don’t have to wait if you don’t want.
Hello Ken.
My casino rules are : surrender(im not sure if it’s early or late), 6-deck game, stand on S17(not sure either), 3 splits allowed, double any 2 cards, double after split allowed. Blackjack pay 3:2.
AND: Blackjack with the same symbol of the cards (hearts for example) pays 2:1.
If the box has value of “21” with 7 cards in the box, it pays 5:1.
If there are three sevens with the same symbol in the box, it pays 5:1.
I think those are pretty good rules. Maybe even slight edge is on my side?
Can you tell me what should i change in my basic strategy because of the “AND” part above?
Also, my main question is:
Bet spread is 2$ – 100$ here. Can you tell me what is the minimum bankroll for a 3h play? I read in GameMaster’s school that it should be 50x top bet, but i suppose that’s because the bet spread there was 5$-50$ which is pretty bad. I don’t have 5000$ dollars. I have like 500$ maximum. I want to train for a couple of months, and then go to the casino, and see what can I do. I hope there won’t be that losing streak right away. But I’m fully aware of it.
And if I am able to stay disciplined, and focused, i will probably go in the casino with much bigger bankroll, after some decent time of practice.
But I’m asking you if 200-300-500$ is enough for this first time, with this 2$-100$ betting spread, or I should just wait, and save more money?
Sorry for the long post.
Thank you for everything.
Suited blackjack paying 2:1 adds 0.57% to the game. The base game you describe is around -0.58% if H17, or -0.36% if S17.
Suited 777 paying 5:1 adds only 0.008%, and 7-card 21 is probably less than that.
The overall net is a breakeven basic strategy game for H17, and +0.22% for S17 games. That’s a nice base advantage for the game.
The only strategy change is don’t split your 7s if they are suited. Hit for the possible 5:1.
If you are betting a top bet of $100, even if you are willing to take the risk of losing the bank, you need to have the table stakes to double and split as needed. Long term, I’m more conservative than the GameMaster. I advocate a full bankroll of 100X your top bet instead of his 50x. But for short-term plays, accepting the very high risk of losing your entire stake, I still would not sit down at the table with less than 10 times my expected top bet for the session. And I would never make a single bet that I couldn’t afford to split and double on the two hands.
Sorry Ken, one more question, so you can answer them at once.
You said in previous replies in this topic that someone should stand on a true count 4 and 15 vs dealer’s 10? That’s not what basic strategy says. I mean, basic strategy doesn’t correlate to counting in any way. So I am wondering, what do you actually mean? I didn’t read whole “GameMaster’s school ” yet, so i suppose these are some of the advanced strategies?
Best regards man, and i apologize for being boring.
Basic strategy says hit 15vT. But card counters who know the deck is full of high cards (with a true count of +4 or higher) can utilize that information to know that standing is now better than hitting in that case. Each strategy decision has a tipping point like this (an index number), where the strategy changes if the remaining deck composition is far enough from average. But by all means, focus first on getting basic strategy down cold. When I started, I used card counting for over a year with just basic strategy before I added strategy changes to my game.
I’m in Brazil, where casinos are forbidden. So, I need to play in online casinos, using the live blackjack mode. The rules of the casino are: 8-deck game, cut off in the 50% of the shoe, stand on S17, double any 2 cards, double after split allowed, except for the double Aces (only one addition card). Blackjack pays 3:2.
My question is: With these conditions, is it possible to beat the dealer?
An 8-deck 50% game is very tough, but it could be beaten with a large enough spread if you are also willing to leave in any negative count. It’s going to be a frustrating grind, and because the edge will be so small, you could play perfectly for many hundreds of hours and still be behind due to bad luck. I wouldn’t waste time on this game.
Пожалуйста, пришлите на мой адрес электронной почты список казино Вегаса, в которых еще есть столы 3:2, и какие казино вы рекомендуете как лучшие. Спасибо.
Привет, Кен,
I just started counting cards and i found 2 casinos with good rules but i don’t know which is better. In both casinos the dealer stands on S17, double on any 2 pairs is allowed, resplitting is allowed and after splitting aces you get one card and black jack pays 3:2. But the first one is an 8-deck with 85% penetration while the other is 4-deck with 65-75% penetration. Which one should i prefer?
The off-the-top difference between 4 decks and 8 decks is only around 0.1%.
Because the penetration is so much better on your 8-deck game, I would choose the 8-deck game for card counting.
(Just to be clear: Basic strategy players would be better off in the 4-deck game, since penetration doesn’t matter to them.)
Привет, Кен, у меня вопрос.
В вашей базовой матрице статегии вы пишете, что нужно разделить 8,8s против T или A, но в матрице для британского казино вы просто бьете. В чем разница между ними?
В Великобритании дилер не сдает дырявую карту, и любые удвоения или сплиты уязвимы перед возможным блэкджеком дилера. В США дилер проверяет наличие блэкджека непосредственно перед началом игры, поэтому вы не сможете удвоиться или разделиться, если у него блэкджек. Это различие делает неразумным удвоение или сплит в Великобритании, когда у дилера на руках десятка или туз. Одно исключение: В Великобритании все еще сплитуют тузы против десятки дилера.
Чтобы получить подходящую стратегию для этих игр, вы можете использовать Стратегический двигатель и выберите "Без подглядывания".
Hello Ken
I have a question about which count is more preferred. I play in 2 casinos one of which is 4deck with 75% penetration and the other one is 6deck with 85% penetration. Obviously the best casino to choose is the second one but my question is that i use Hi-Lo count, but some say that the Knock-out count is more preferred for shoe games even if it is an unbalanced count, so which of these 2 counts is the best for these 2 casinos??
I find Hi-Lo profitable and easy but i find KO count easy as well, so does the KO count have more success than the Hi-Lo count for the casinos that i attend to???
Will i have more success by using KO count rather than Hi-Lo count in those casinos??
Please Help 🙂
In 6 and 8 deck games, Hi-Lo and KO perform almost identically. Switching to the easier KO count will not cost you anything.
Hey Ken i am counting card for almost a year and i always prefer to play alone with the dealer. Lets assume that the true count is +4 and i would bet 40 pounds. Is it better to open 2 or 3 boxes instead of playing in one box? Will i reduce the standard deviation? And will i have more or less profit in the long run?
Wagering the same amount split up over two spots instead of one will decrease your variance. In that case, your expected win is still the same but the swings will be smaller.
Also, because the variance is lower, you can afford to make a larger total bet instead. If your bankroll allows you to make a $100 bet on one spot, you can afford to bet $75 on each of two spots and incur the same overall risk. With total action of $150 instead of $100, your win rate goes up but risk stays the same.
Кен, при попытке распечатать этот урок графики не печатаются в цвете. Не знаю почему, но на экране они отображаются нормально, а в цвете не печатаются.
Спасибо, что указали на эту проблему. Она исправлена. Теперь при печати будет отображаться цветной текст решения.
Love your site and tutorial. I’ve really been enjoying playing blackjack because of it. However, I’m confused or have a problem with one thing. You say to walk away when TC is -1. If I actually walked away, I’d wind up never playing. -1 occurs very very often, I don’t understand how you expect people to walk away. One time I went to the casino with my friends and we took up the whole table, so I was able to sit out a bunch of hands…when the count was negative, without looking suspicious. That was awesome. But I just can’t figure out how to do it when playing not-with-friends without looking suspicious. Can you give me a few pointers? Thanks
I think GameMaster’s advice here is impractical for most players. As you note, a true count of -1 happens very often. Too often for most players to want to, or even be able to switch tables.
Realistically, switching tables at TC -2 is still tough but manageable if you are in a casino with plenty of tables.
If that is still too difficult, at least save your restroom breaks for when the count really tanks.
Yes, if you leave every 6-deck shoe at -1, you’ll be walking a lot. I personally never left at that minor a negative count. But if you can do it, it does really help the expected results. In 2-deck games, you can afford to play through a lot more negative counts and still have very good overall results. That is why the majority of my play has been at 2-deck games. They are simply a lot easier to beat.
As for sitting down at a shoe already in progress, there’s no problem with it, although you are less likely to reach a positive situation. It’s like playing a game with poor penetration until the first shuffle. Just treat any discards when you begin as unseen decks, just like the cards still in the shoe. For that reason, it’s simpler and better to just come in immediately after a shuffle instead. But you don’t have to wait if you don’t want.