The innovative Advanced Blackjack Strategy Cards from BlackjackInfo provide a first-ever pairing of the best possible basic strategies, with **optimal card counting index numbers** right on the card.

The 12-card set includes two cards each for these rule variations:

- 1 Deck, Dealer Stands on all 17s
- 1 Deck, Dealer Hits Soft 17
- 2 Decks, Dealer Stands on all 17s
- 2 Decks, Dealer Hits Soft 17
- 4/6/8 Decks, Dealer Stands on all 17s
- 4/6/8 Decks, Dealer Hits Soft 17

One card for each variation shows the card counting index numbers as a small printed number. A second “stealth” version of each card encodes the counting indexes using a series of black dots in a clock-face pattern.

Features:

- Perfect basic strategy for each game
- Optimized Hi-Lo card counting index numbers from -5 to +5
- Pocket size cards for easy use at the casino table.
- Solid plastic for durability, not cheap laminated cards.

These cards include complete basic strategy information like our Basic Strategy Card products. For an explanation of how to read the basic strategy portion of the cards, you can refer to the instructions for our basic strategy cards.

The instructions here cover only the advanced features of the card set, the Hi-Lo card counting index numbers.

For those users who already understand what the Hi-Lo index numbers mean, we will begin with an illustration of how the indexes are represented on the cards. Don’t worry, I’ll explain how to use the numbers in a moment.

In the numeric index version of each card, the Hi-Lo card counting index for each decision is printed in the bottom right corner of each square. For example, this section of the card shows player hands of hard 9 vs a dealer 2 through 6.

With 9 vs dealer 2, the basic strategy is to Hit and the Hi-Lo index number is +1. (This means that you should double if the current true count is +1 or higher, and hit otherwise. I’ll give you more detail on how to use the numbers below.)

With 9 vs dealer 3, 4, and 5, the basic strategy is to double, and the index numbers are -1, -3, and -4 respectively.

With 9 vs 6, the basic strategy is to double and there is no index number shown because the index would be less than -5, the lowest index shown on the cards.

If you are concerned about using the cards with printed index numbers in the casino, you can use the “stealth” version of each card instead, which encodes the card counting index numbers using a series of black dots in a clockface pattern.

Each index from -5 to +5 is represented by a different position in the decision square. A black dot at the center top of the square represents an index of zero. As you move from zero in a clockwise direction, the indexes increase from +1 to +5. As you move counter-clockwise from zero, the indexes decrease from -1 to -5. Here’s a map of the index values:

Here is the same example of a hard 9 vs a dealer 2-6:

The index values are the same as before: +1, -1, -3, -4, and none.

In addition to concealing the nature of the cards, this visual representation can also serve as a useful memory aid.

If you already know how to use index numbers with the Hi-Lo count, you’re all set. For those of you that need some help understanding what this all means, please read on.

Card counting exploits the fact that small cards are bad for the player while ten-value cards and Aces are favorable for the player. The popular Hi-Lo count allows a player to track whether the remaining deck has more or fewer high cards left than usual. As cards are dealt in the game, the player keeps a running plus/minus count using the following card values:

Card values 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are counted as **+1**.

Card values T, J, Q, K, and Ace are counted as **-1**.

Card values 7, 8, and 9 are ignored.

You begin the count after each shuffle with a running count of zero, and add or subtract as cards are dealt or revealed.

Any time your running count is positive, the remaining deck has more high cards left than low cards. (That’s good!) Any time your running count is negative, the remaining deck has an excess of small cards. (That’s bad.)

Before you can use the count to make a betting or playing decision, there is one more important step. You must convert your running count into the current “true” count, by dividing it by the number of unseen decks left in the shoe.

A running count of +6 is much more meaningful if only one deck remains in the six-deck shoe than if we are only a hand or two into a freshly shuffled six decks. That is why the true count conversion is important. In the case where only one deck remains, the running count of +6 divided by 1 deck remaining yields a true count of +6. In the case where nearly all of six decks remains in the shoe, the same +6 running count becomes a true count of just over +1.

By betting more in plus situations and as little as possible in minus situations, a player can swing the odds of the game into his favor and have a long-term positive advantage over the casino.

Obviously, this is a very abbreviated explanation of how to count cards. I strongly encourage you to read the far more in-depth details in our free blackjack school.

Most of the benefit of card counting comes from betting more when the deck is favorable. However, since you know something about the composition of the remaining deck, you can also use that information to change your playing strategy when appropriate. For example, let’s say you have a hand of (Ten,2) and the dealer has a 2 showing. **Basic strategy says that you should hit 12v2.**

If there are enough extra high cards in the remaining decks, it becomes better to stand with 12v2. Just how many “extra” high cards are “enough”? That’s where index numbers come in. **If the Hi-Lo true count is +3 or higher, you should stand with 12v2 instead of hitting it.** If the Hi-Lo true count is +2 or lower then you should hit 12v2, just like normal basic strategy says.

The “+3” in this case is an “index number”, which dictates the point at which the best playing strategy for a specific decision changes.

I will repeat my advice… This is a very brief overview. If these concepts are new to you, please see the in-depth details in our blackjack school.

The cards include several distinct types of index numbers:

Hand Type | Index Type | What the Index Means |
---|---|---|

Hard 8-11 | Double or Hit | Double if the current true count is >= the index. Otherwise, hit. |

Hard 12-16 | Stand or Hit | Stand if the current true count is >= the index. Otherwise, hit. |

Soft A2-A6 | Double or Hit | Double if the current true count is >= the index. Otherwise, hit. |

Soft A7-A9 | Double or Stand | Double if the current true count is >= the index. Otherwise, stand. |

Pairs 22-AA | Split or No Split | Split if the current true count is >= the index. Otherwise, do not split. |

In addition, there is one important index that is not listed on the card:

If the true count is +3 or higher, you should buy Insurance when the dealer has an Ace up.

(In single deck games, you can insure at +2 or higher.)

This is just about the shortest possible explanation of card counting and index numbers. Did I mention that you can find a far more comprehensive explanation at our free blackjack school?

Why, yes, I did. 🙂

I want to make one point especially clear. If you have any doubt about how to apply an index number, or you find that you aren’t sure whether the true count is sufficient for a particular play, just use regular basic strategy. It is far more dangerous to apply these ideas inaccurately than to not use them at all.

You don’t have to be Rainman to count cards, but it does take practice and discipline. Until you feel comfortable with the process, just stick with basic strategy. Even after you learn to count cards, it is helpful to play just basic strategy while varying your bet sizes for a period of time. Once the process of card counting becomes second nature, you can add the index numbers and strategy variations to your game.

And last of all, I should remind you that playing blackjack with an advantage doesn’t mean that you can’t lose. Hardly! You’ll have slightly more winning sessions than losing sessions if you accurately use the Hi-Lo counting system, but your edge is small. Don’t bet money that you can’t afford to lose. And please, if you have a problem with gambling, get help from one of the many organizations that address the issue of compulsive gambling.

Don’t have a set of our advanced cards yet? You can purchase a set here.

And if you aren’t ready yet for the advanced strategy cards and card counting, please check out our Basic Strategy Cards instead.

For 4/6/8 Decks, H17 and S17, what were the rules that you used to generate the indexes for each cards? Example, split up to 4 hands, can split 10,10, and etc…

Sorry I thought you did the counter blackjack pro 2

My bad!

Thanks though

I cant even find the app at the App Store.

Thanks

Hey Ken I had to go from a android to a iPhone7 plus.

Any way I can transfer my advanced strategie over to other phone with out having to make another purchase.

Thanks

I have never produced an app, either for Android or iPhone. Not sure what you’re talking about.

I live in Québec, Canada (I’m a French-Canadian, so I’m apologising from my grammar mistakes… 😛 ), and we have some weird rules for Black Jack, so it’s really hard for me to find a perfect index chart on the internet, and the rare one that I find are missing some index number, or only goes from -3 to 4. Even worst, all the numbers are rounded, and most of the time they don’t explain how they rounded them. For example, some place says that 1,5 to 2,5 are 2, but some other places said that 1,1 to 2,9 are 2 on the index chart… So I was wondering if you have a program that you recommend to me that will allow me to calculate the perfect index number for the rules where I live. Thanks a lot in advance 🙂

CVData will calculate indexes using any rules and conditions that you specify. Find it at https://qfit.com/blackjack-simulator.htm

Ken, Great website by the way. With the 8 deck game using Hi-Lo counting. 1-12 or 1-20 spread is better?

Bet spread 0 =$10.00

true count +1 =$25.00 +2 =$50.00 (.5%) +3 =$100.00 (1%) +4 =$150.00 (1.5%) +5 =$200.00 (2% edge) over house

cut card 1.5 deck cut off (75%) penetration roughly

Let’s say I had a running count +26 with half a shoe left. (TC =+6) Move to a second hand or just play one? Two other players at table. I prefer to play alone.

Always split 8,8 vs 10 (right) TC +5 change to stand?

Thanks,

Bigger spreads will always have a higher expected win. Spreading to two hands in positive situations will always have a lower risk with the same expected win as a single hand of the same total amount. So it really comes down to what you are comfortable doing.

As for 88vT, you should always split in DAS games. In NDAS games, your index is correct. At TC+5 or higher, stand instead of split. Because it’s a “reverse” index (split in lower counts, stand in higher), I left it off my advanced strategy cards because of the potential for confusion.

Well said. The larger your spread the more heat from the pit. I have have been mixing colors (black,green,red chips) which I got from Ken Uston and Kevin Blackwood. Cat and mouse game I guess. Thanks for the reply.

Single deck it has a 1 in the 9v2 box. basic start says double. On a neutral count do I Double? Or hit. Does the one mean hit when it’s 1+ and don’t double, cuz technicAlly the index mean do something different than what I on this chart and the chart has double. Intuitively I would think but unless plus one then double cuz it has a better chance of working out right?

I am also confused on 8v 5,6 and soft 19 v 6 which has a one. Thank you.

I would think hit unless plus one

The indexes you mention (9v2, 8v5&6, Soft 19v6) are all double-down indexes. I understand your confusion, because it would seem like basic strategy should match up with the action at a count of zero. But it doesn’t always match up. Why? Basic strategy takes into account the cards in your hand.

A great example is your choice of 9v2, where the doubling index is +1. Yet, in one or two-deck games, basic strategy says to double down. Here’s why… Consider a freshly shuffled single deck, and deal yourself a 9 against a dealer 2. What’s the count? Well, there are three possible ways to deal that hand (2,7), (3,6), and (4,5). And the dealer has a 2 up. If you’ll notice, the running count is now +2 or +3 depending on which version you are dealt. So off the top of the deck, you’re guaranteed to have more than a +1 true count if you get this hand. So a basic strategy double-down and a doubling index number of +1 are indeed compatible.

the rules are 17s , early surrender alowed (except vs A) , and double down 9 , 10 , 11.Now the true count are -4 , 16 vs 10 , are that surrender or hit ? and are the basic strategy varation important for a “good” game ?.. for example split 10s never.. or ounly if the count are true count are (exampel) +5..etc.

The advanced cards do not include surrender indexes, to keep them manageable. So, given the advice on the card, you should surrender 16vT. If you cannot surrender, if the true count is 0 or better, you should stand. If it is negative, you should hit.

Now, I can add to that an additional piece of information. The “surrender index” for 16vT is -4. So, if the true count is -4 or better, you should surrender. If the true count is -5 or worse, you should just hit, even when surrender is allowed.

You ask how important strategy variations are to the game. Most of your edge comes from bet variation, and only about 1/4 of your edge comes from changing strategy. I always recommend getting completely comfortable counting with just basic strategy before you start to add index plays to your toolbox.

thanks for your answer !

i hope in a near future we can talk about startegy vaiations etc.

Hey thanks for getting right back to me.

Sorry about the confusion on the question.

You did answer my question.i have a hard time keeping the count while i am playing in the casino.

I got basic strategy down real well.

On my bank roll i stay pretty much even.

No big loses or wins.

I just need more practice on the count under pressure

Thanks for the input.

Your products really r helping me improve my game.

Hey i am pretty good at card counting,

Only thing is when i am actually playing and trying to count i lose the count.

I thought i would learn to speed count just while i am playing Black jack.

I needed to know if you think this method would work?

( I usually get in games with about 6 players myself included)

Thanks

( continued)

I Always have to count in a six deck shoe.

Thanks.

Your comment is a little confusing. I assume you are asking what I think of the “speed count”, a simpler method of counting cards. I’m not a fan of the speed count, because although it does work, it is much weaker than a count like KO. Most players find that with some practice they can use KO. Your results will be much better if you can do that.

K thanks alot!

Been counting for about 3 months now,

Getting better every day!

Your strategies cards r really helping!

My guestion is, the casinos i play BLack jack in use a six deck shoe.

When they change dealers in the middle of the shoe. The new Dealer always burn the top card.

Should i count theis card is a minus or neutral. Since i never see the card.

Thanks.

Ignore any unseen cards, so treat it as neutral. It is as if that card was behind the cut card, never to be used.

Can you please clarify the index play on 6D H17 DAS: Hard 17 vs A where it says RS-5; and 8,8 vs A where it says RP-2.

Sure…

With Hard 17vs Ace, surrender if you can. If you cannot surrender, the “stand” index is -5, meaning stand if the true count is -5 or better. Only when the true count is worse than -5 should you hit.

With 88vAce, surrender if you can. If you cannot surrender, the “split” index is -2. Split if the true count is -2 or better. If the true count is -3 or worse, you should hit instead of stand.

That makes a lot of sense now. Thank you for your quick response.

Omg thank u ?..!!