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is it obvious to see how many times the casino shuffles their deck? i remember they get it from like a little shoot or something. would it shuffle in there or would they take out every deck and than shuffle. how would you know if they shuffle after each hand or when the decks are done?
Hi,
I have question,
I am lucky (or not ?!) to find a casino where I can surrender in a way that I cannot see either Early or Late type, it seems something in between:
– European style, there is no peek
– I cannot surrender when dealer has ace, but I can surrender when he has any 10s, anytime
– I can surrender after split or double-down.
– The cards are shuffled by CSM, so counting cards is impossible.
And most importantly, when I play with minimum bet of 5$, if I surrender, they give me 3$ since they do not have half a dollar chips. That adds up nicely to my bank
So in these conditions how should I use basic strategy and how much is house’s edge approximately?
None of my current code supports surrender after split or double, so an accurate answer is elusive.
You could use the free combinatorial analyzer here to look at some of these questions, but not all.
And you could use it to decide which $5 hands you should surrender. Since you only lose $2 by surrendering (0.4%) of your bet, you can look at the best EV for the other strategies. If it’s worse than -0.4, you should surrender instead.
I’ve been trying to google this and cant find any forums or info regarding the matter, so here goes:
In a true count of +6 (or something of that significance), is it ever correct to stand on a 12, 13 or 14 against a 10?
Knowing that the probability of the next card being a 10 and more often busting than improving you, should you stand and pray the dealer has 6 or less and take that 10? Or do you always hit since too many cards improve you (and refer to basic strategy)?
Short answer: Just always hit 12, 13, and 14 vs Ten.
Longer answer:
For 12vT and 13vT, the count basically never gets high enough to stand.
With 14vT, the appropriate Hi-Lo index would be very high. I know it is more than +10 true count, because I ran very in-depth data for the range of -10 to +10, and 14vT was still “always hit”.
Wong’s Professional Blackjack book shows “Always Hit” for 14vT with the Hi-Lo count, but for his Halves count, he gives an index of +10.
This is likely because the Halves count includes sevens, which are quite important for that specific hand.
If I recall on what I’ve read so far (new to this), in high true counts (let’s say 6+), then for hands 15 and up, you should always stand correct? Like a +1 and you should stand on 16 vs 10, at what count would I have to stand on a 15?
16vT: Stand at 0 or higher.
15vT: Stand at +4 or higher.
My Advanced cards have very precise indexes for 6 different sets of rules.
For a free version of the most important numbers, check the FAQ post about the “Illustrious 18“, a list of the 18 most important indexes.
Purchased your Advanced BJ strategy cards. I have seen several people bring a casino version as an “allowed” cheat sheet to play basic strategy at the tables. Even got into a “fun” argument with someone who said I played a basic decision incorrectly based upon their card. I told him I had not and he should check again. He pulled it out and “lo and behold’ I was right……..LOL Amazing how confusing to many A-7 is, right?
In any event, round about way to get to use of your Advanced cards (stealth mode) in casino. I have them; been tempted to use them at tables but seem to chicken out to actually pulling them out to use. Illustrious 18 I have memorized pretty much. Have you received any feedback from players on them yet? I want to play “dumb” but not THAT dumb at the tables. Would hate for them to confiscate my card………..haha. But it does concern me if a pit boss were to ask me for my card and I had to show it to him. Your suggestions?
You asked if I had feedback from players on this issue, and actually, I have not. I need to start asking around, and see what players are experiencing with it.
It will likely end up depending on the venue a lot. There are some places I play where I would not consider pulling out a card, and yet there are others pits where I would feel completely comfortable.
Since you have memorized the Illustrious 18, you are getting 80-90% of the value already without the card actually in hand. You have likely also developed some feel for the decisions that are not among the 18, but are marginal. With that in mind, you may find only one or two hands per hour where you would want to look at the card.
I completely understand the quandary, and I would love to hear your thoughts afterward if you use it.
Even if the pit actually looks at the card, there is a good chance they would not notice the dots. Worst case, if I found myself confronted with a pit person asking about the dots, I would tell him the dots tell me which hands it’s safe to play on a hunch if I don’t want to follow the advice. It’s just goofy enough to maybe work, and there’s a little truth behind it.
Is it more favourable to surrender than to hit 16 vs 10 at -1? I’m sure this info is on here somewhere, but I haven’t found it.
Thanks for the site and info
B
With 16vT, when surrender is available, surrender if the true count is -4 or higher, else hit.
When surrender is not available, stand at true count 0 or higher, else hit.
I have a relatively small bankroll and comps and match plays really make a huge impact on my future game (have not frequented many times yet), but wanted to clarify some thoughts. In a hypothetical situation, if I was to be receiving a $100 match-play bonus, is my EV out of that around $97 (assuming I play it at a house disadvantage) or is it around $47 for player (since house has a 3% edge making it around $53 for the house). Sorry if this seems silly, but I just wanted to make sure about the math before I dive into this.
Regardless, would this match play make a red chipper who spreads $10-100 (max bet) at a very high advantage or is negligible towards the hourly / bottom line? I assume even at a $47 free-roll, that has to impact a $10 min when max is $100.
I just got my basic strategy card but in the key for doubling both are listed as D with no distinguishing factor between double else hit or double else stand and only soft a soft 8 hand with a dealer 2-6 has a DS all other are D. I am wondering if I am being dumb or the card is misprinted?
I like it like it is. If you add the flashcard type version I hope you would make it an option like choosing how many decks, etc. If it were permanent I think I would think less before hitting, standing, or doubling down.
I assume you mean you would like a feature (optional of course) that shows you the correct play before you make the decision.
The trainer already corrects you on mistakes, but I can see how some people may like an option to just see the best play beforehand. Sort of like learning with flashcards. Sounds reasonable for the new version.
Almost all online blackjack games shuffle after every hand, making card counting useless.
You can make money playing online, but the value comes from bonuses and promotions. There’s no way to beat the games straight up.
I’m a fan. Keep it up guys!
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Big-Broke-Six-Figures-Blackjack-ebook/dp/B00PYUS21U/ref=sr_1_38?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1424483555&sr=1-38&keywords=blackjack
is it obvious to see how many times the casino shuffles their deck? i remember they get it from like a little shoot or something. would it shuffle in there or would they take out every deck and than shuffle. how would you know if they shuffle after each hand or when the decks are done?
I assume you mean at online casinos. You often can’t tell anything visually about shuffling. You need to look at the rule details instead.
Hi,
I have question,
I am lucky (or not ?!) to find a casino where I can surrender in a way that I cannot see either Early or Late type, it seems something in between:
– European style, there is no peek
– I cannot surrender when dealer has ace, but I can surrender when he has any 10s, anytime
– I can surrender after split or double-down.
– The cards are shuffled by CSM, so counting cards is impossible.
And most importantly, when I play with minimum bet of 5$, if I surrender, they give me 3$ since they do not have half a dollar chips. That adds up nicely to my bank
So in these conditions how should I use basic strategy and how much is house’s edge approximately?
None of my current code supports surrender after split or double, so an accurate answer is elusive.
You could use the free combinatorial analyzer here to look at some of these questions, but not all.
And you could use it to decide which $5 hands you should surrender. Since you only lose $2 by surrendering (0.4%) of your bet, you can look at the best EV for the other strategies. If it’s worse than -0.4, you should surrender instead.
Hi,
I’ve been trying to google this and cant find any forums or info regarding the matter, so here goes:
In a true count of +6 (or something of that significance), is it ever correct to stand on a 12, 13 or 14 against a 10?
Knowing that the probability of the next card being a 10 and more often busting than improving you, should you stand and pray the dealer has 6 or less and take that 10? Or do you always hit since too many cards improve you (and refer to basic strategy)?
Thanks
Short answer: Just always hit 12, 13, and 14 vs Ten.
Longer answer:
For 12vT and 13vT, the count basically never gets high enough to stand.
With 14vT, the appropriate Hi-Lo index would be very high. I know it is more than +10 true count, because I ran very in-depth data for the range of -10 to +10, and 14vT was still “always hit”.
Wong’s Professional Blackjack book shows “Always Hit” for 14vT with the Hi-Lo count, but for his Halves count, he gives an index of +10.
This is likely because the Halves count includes sevens, which are quite important for that specific hand.
@Ken Smith:
Hello and thanks,
If I recall on what I’ve read so far (new to this), in high true counts (let’s say 6+), then for hands 15 and up, you should always stand correct? Like a +1 and you should stand on 16 vs 10, at what count would I have to stand on a 15?
Thanks again
16vT: Stand at 0 or higher.
15vT: Stand at +4 or higher.
My Advanced cards have very precise indexes for 6 different sets of rules.
For a free version of the most important numbers, check the FAQ post about the “Illustrious 18“, a list of the 18 most important indexes.
Purchased your Advanced BJ strategy cards. I have seen several people bring a casino version as an “allowed” cheat sheet to play basic strategy at the tables. Even got into a “fun” argument with someone who said I played a basic decision incorrectly based upon their card. I told him I had not and he should check again. He pulled it out and “lo and behold’ I was right……..LOL Amazing how confusing to many A-7 is, right?
In any event, round about way to get to use of your Advanced cards (stealth mode) in casino. I have them; been tempted to use them at tables but seem to chicken out to actually pulling them out to use. Illustrious 18 I have memorized pretty much. Have you received any feedback from players on them yet? I want to play “dumb” but not THAT dumb at the tables. Would hate for them to confiscate my card………..haha. But it does concern me if a pit boss were to ask me for my card and I had to show it to him. Your suggestions?
You asked if I had feedback from players on this issue, and actually, I have not. I need to start asking around, and see what players are experiencing with it.
It will likely end up depending on the venue a lot. There are some places I play where I would not consider pulling out a card, and yet there are others pits where I would feel completely comfortable.
Since you have memorized the Illustrious 18, you are getting 80-90% of the value already without the card actually in hand. You have likely also developed some feel for the decisions that are not among the 18, but are marginal. With that in mind, you may find only one or two hands per hour where you would want to look at the card.
I completely understand the quandary, and I would love to hear your thoughts afterward if you use it.
Even if the pit actually looks at the card, there is a good chance they would not notice the dots. Worst case, if I found myself confronted with a pit person asking about the dots, I would tell him the dots tell me which hands it’s safe to play on a hunch if I don’t want to follow the advice. It’s just goofy enough to maybe work, and there’s a little truth behind it.
Is it more favourable to surrender than to hit 16 vs 10 at -1? I’m sure this info is on here somewhere, but I haven’t found it.
Thanks for the site and info
B
With 16vT, when surrender is available, surrender if the true count is -4 or higher, else hit.
When surrender is not available, stand at true count 0 or higher, else hit.
Hello thanks for previous answers, new question!
I have a relatively small bankroll and comps and match plays really make a huge impact on my future game (have not frequented many times yet), but wanted to clarify some thoughts. In a hypothetical situation, if I was to be receiving a $100 match-play bonus, is my EV out of that around $97 (assuming I play it at a house disadvantage) or is it around $47 for player (since house has a 3% edge making it around $53 for the house). Sorry if this seems silly, but I just wanted to make sure about the math before I dive into this.
Regardless, would this match play make a red chipper who spreads $10-100 (max bet) at a very high advantage or is negligible towards the hourly / bottom line? I assume even at a $47 free-roll, that has to impact a $10 min when max is $100.
thoughts are appreciated
Josh
I just got my basic strategy card but in the key for doubling both are listed as D with no distinguishing factor between double else hit or double else stand and only soft a soft 8 hand with a dealer 2-6 has a DS all other are D. I am wondering if I am being dumb or the card is misprinted?
I like it like it is. If you add the flashcard type version I hope you would make it an option like choosing how many decks, etc. If it were permanent I think I would think less before hitting, standing, or doubling down.
for real. thats makes sense!
No firm timeframe yet for the new version, but I know it is months away still. I’m hoping to have something by this summer.
I assume you mean you would like a feature (optional of course) that shows you the correct play before you make the decision.
The trainer already corrects you on mistakes, but I can see how some people may like an option to just see the best play beforehand. Sort of like learning with flashcards. Sounds reasonable for the new version.
Almost all online blackjack games shuffle after every hand, making card counting useless.
You can make money playing online, but the value comes from bonuses and promotions. There’s no way to beat the games straight up.