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It’s clear you never heard of “Jim’s rhythm system”.
I can’t reveal the details, but it’s a modified anti martingale system that limits your losses and maximizes your gains, best played on a 6 deck shoe, and playing two hands or one hand, depending on the circumstance. If other players at the table don’t like you ‘changing up the cards’ by being in and out with one or two hands, you may want to find an empty table. You will never draw attention from the pit, and you never count cards. This system will lose more than it wins,but the wins can be huge.
Does anybody know Kevin barton? He is my dad and I have been looking for him for 19 years. He is a really well known blackjack player card counter please any information about my dad would be really appreciated
I’ve been learning to card count. I’m using the Hi-Lo system. (But I’m looking at the TKO system as well.) I’m dealing one deck and keeping track of my outcome as well as the time it takes me to get through a deck. My best so far is 40 seconds.
There are three questions I have for you…
1. How to best compute “decks dealt” by just looking at the discard shoe?
2. In my second-to-last casino visit I did very well BUT… one of the other players at the table actually said “what are you doing man? Counting cards?” I about $hat my pants! So, how to best “cover up” the fact?
3. What are your thoughts on the TKO system by Daniel Dravot?
Thanks,
GV
1. Estimating the number of decks in the discard tray is a skill that you can practice at home. Buy a few used decks from a casino gift shop, and try guessing how many cards are in various sized stacks. You don’t have to be super-accurate. Getting within a half deck accuracy should be good enough.
2. At low bet amounts, you cannot afford so-called camouflage to hide your tactics. Just keep your sessions at any single table short.
3. KO is roughly equal in strength to Hi-Lo, and most people find it easier. TKO improves on it further, but I would make sure you are very comfortable with regular KO first. You can add the TKO ideas later.
Good luck, and good cards! -Ken-
Ken Smith is the only knowledgable player here. I don’t count but I play solid basic strategy and I press like a maniac until I reach the table max. I’m from the school of play to win big. I’ll break my bankroll up into 6 or 8 sessions usually around 600 bucks. I start at a hundred a hand. If I lose three in a row I’m gone. My goal is to press to the table max while pulling back enough money to double or split on any given bet amount. I play for streaks. I want to win 9+ hands in a row. It has happened. I usually don’t play longer than 10 to 20 minutes at a given time. It’s been great. I’ve won big. I’ve lost too. It’s a blast when a streak happens and you’ve got 20 people cheering for you with a 5 or 6 thousand dollar bet up there. Win or lose. It’s a major rush.
Say for example I was at a $15 minimum table, would you recommend using the same spread like the one listed. So $5 would be $15, $10 would be $30 etc etc?
Also, say for example I had a bankroll where I could afford to bet $20 – $240. If I was at a $5 table should I just bet $5 when the count is 1 or less and then jump to $40 when it get to 2. Other than maybe raising casino interest in your play, would this be a good strategy
Yes, you can think of spreads in terms of bet multiples no matter what the table minimum is. Of course, your bankroll needs to be proportionally larger too.
For your second question, a bigger spread will create a bigger return. In short, the less you can bet into bad counts and the more you can bet into good counts directly translate into better return. Larger spreads also create larger swings, in many cases much larger. So make sure you understand the bankroll required.
Luckily, the pit-bosses and THEIR bosses here in Mesquite seem to have a super-low opinion of the 6:5 games, so I doubt we’ll be seeing them for a while…
Is there an iOS app version of this trainer for my iPad?
I stumbled across this webpage on a Google search, and I won’t be back here to check message replies.
Please email your response.
Hi Ken ! thanks for all. I would know if is possible to buy the advanced card set in ebook format or something like that because the shipping charges regard my country are really high.
I agree. The true count must be calculated in when deciding wether to hit or stay during a hand. Rigidly adhering to bs doesn’t seem to make sense to me. Or so it seems
I’ve played my fair share of blackjack in actual casinos. Many of it counting cards. This happens nearly every time. It’s a real pisser….you put all that time and effort into learning how to count cards only to realize the count is negative so often and usually right out of the gate. It’s very seldom the count goes high or in your favor. Counting cards certainly works but if you’re careful not to expose yourself by betting large amounts while the count is high you end up barely getting by. I’ve been working on progressive betting strategies for years now with no luck finding the perfect one.
When I started counting I wanted to learn the “best” system, so I only learned that system. Only later I realized that DD and SD games might be beaten more efficiently with higher PC. I ended up learning the Hi-lo eventually (only system I know about for Spanish 21), and I would have just switched to that had I not already memorized the damn indices for the halves.
So I really appreciate your response.
P.S. Don’t give up on SD just yet, Cali has a few decent (but not amazing) SD games too.
has anybody been using snyders red seven count?
It’s clear you never heard of “Jim’s rhythm system”.
I can’t reveal the details, but it’s a modified anti martingale system that limits your losses and maximizes your gains, best played on a 6 deck shoe, and playing two hands or one hand, depending on the circumstance. If other players at the table don’t like you ‘changing up the cards’ by being in and out with one or two hands, you may want to find an empty table. You will never draw attention from the pit, and you never count cards. This system will lose more than it wins,but the wins can be huge.
Great helpful advice re martingale. The pushes and table maximums make any negative progression a terrible strategy.
Does anybody know Kevin barton? He is my dad and I have been looking for him for 19 years. He is a really well known blackjack player card counter please any information about my dad would be really appreciated
I’ve been learning to card count. I’m using the Hi-Lo system. (But I’m looking at the TKO system as well.) I’m dealing one deck and keeping track of my outcome as well as the time it takes me to get through a deck. My best so far is 40 seconds.
There are three questions I have for you…
1. How to best compute “decks dealt” by just looking at the discard shoe?
2. In my second-to-last casino visit I did very well BUT… one of the other players at the table actually said “what are you doing man? Counting cards?” I about $hat my pants! So, how to best “cover up” the fact?
3. What are your thoughts on the TKO system by Daniel Dravot?
Thanks,
GV
1. Estimating the number of decks in the discard tray is a skill that you can practice at home. Buy a few used decks from a casino gift shop, and try guessing how many cards are in various sized stacks. You don’t have to be super-accurate. Getting within a half deck accuracy should be good enough.
2. At low bet amounts, you cannot afford so-called camouflage to hide your tactics. Just keep your sessions at any single table short.
3. KO is roughly equal in strength to Hi-Lo, and most people find it easier. TKO improves on it further, but I would make sure you are very comfortable with regular KO first. You can add the TKO ideas later.
Good luck, and good cards! -Ken-
Ken Smith is the only knowledgable player here. I don’t count but I play solid basic strategy and I press like a maniac until I reach the table max. I’m from the school of play to win big. I’ll break my bankroll up into 6 or 8 sessions usually around 600 bucks. I start at a hundred a hand. If I lose three in a row I’m gone. My goal is to press to the table max while pulling back enough money to double or split on any given bet amount. I play for streaks. I want to win 9+ hands in a row. It has happened. I usually don’t play longer than 10 to 20 minutes at a given time. It’s been great. I’ve won big. I’ve lost too. It’s a blast when a streak happens and you’ve got 20 people cheering for you with a 5 or 6 thousand dollar bet up there. Win or lose. It’s a major rush.
Hi Ken,
Say for example I was at a $15 minimum table, would you recommend using the same spread like the one listed. So $5 would be $15, $10 would be $30 etc etc?
Also, say for example I had a bankroll where I could afford to bet $20 – $240. If I was at a $5 table should I just bet $5 when the count is 1 or less and then jump to $40 when it get to 2. Other than maybe raising casino interest in your play, would this be a good strategy
Yes, you can think of spreads in terms of bet multiples no matter what the table minimum is. Of course, your bankroll needs to be proportionally larger too.
For your second question, a bigger spread will create a bigger return. In short, the less you can bet into bad counts and the more you can bet into good counts directly translate into better return. Larger spreads also create larger swings, in many cases much larger. So make sure you understand the bankroll required.
Luckily, the pit-bosses and THEIR bosses here in Mesquite seem to have a super-low opinion of the 6:5 games, so I doubt we’ll be seeing them for a while…
Is there an iOS app version of this trainer for my iPad?
I stumbled across this webpage on a Google search, and I won’t be back here to check message replies.
Please email your response.
The new mobile-friendly version is coming along slowly. I now think early Summer is the target. (Emailed also as requested.)
Yeah, that’s the one, though the nuances are slightly different. They also have Triple-Up.
I may have to hit up my younger sibling to bodge something together. XD
Sorry Roberto, I don’t have an electronic version available. I may consider that in the future though.
Hi Ken ! thanks for all. I would know if is possible to buy the advanced card set in ebook format or something like that because the shipping charges regard my country are really high.
I sent an email to ‘observer’, in case he is interested in connecting with you.
You figured out how to count the side bets?
That’s extremely lucrative.
Can we talk?
I agree. The true count must be calculated in when deciding wether to hit or stay during a hand. Rigidly adhering to bs doesn’t seem to make sense to me. Or so it seems
I’ve played my fair share of blackjack in actual casinos. Many of it counting cards. This happens nearly every time. It’s a real pisser….you put all that time and effort into learning how to count cards only to realize the count is negative so often and usually right out of the gate. It’s very seldom the count goes high or in your favor. Counting cards certainly works but if you’re careful not to expose yourself by betting large amounts while the count is high you end up barely getting by. I’ve been working on progressive betting strategies for years now with no luck finding the perfect one.
Thanks, Ken.
When I started counting I wanted to learn the “best” system, so I only learned that system. Only later I realized that DD and SD games might be beaten more efficiently with higher PC. I ended up learning the Hi-lo eventually (only system I know about for Spanish 21), and I would have just switched to that had I not already memorized the damn indices for the halves.
So I really appreciate your response.
P.S. Don’t give up on SD just yet, Cali has a few decent (but not amazing) SD games too.